QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Lena Himmelstein Bryant---Fashion Innovator

  


Illustration of clothing designer Lena Bryant by Jauna Martinez-Neal for the 
children's book A Perfect Fit by Mara Rockcliff

Lena Himmelstein Bryant Malsin (1877 – 1951),
perhaps a wedding picture for her second marriage in
1909 to Albert Malsin.

When she was in her 70s in 1948 she wrote a short autobiography.
"I was born in a small village in Lithuania and my mother died when I was ten days old. My older sister and I were brought up by our grandparents. My sister migrated to the United States early, and when I was sixteen years old, some distant relatives offered to take me in 1897.
New York's European Jewish area in 1898
"My sister was a seamstress in a shop, and there I was hired for $1 a week. Soon I [was] a first class machine operator at $4 a week more.
 
"I met, and within a year married David Bryant (1870-1900), a jeweler older than I and in my eyes a sophisticated man of the world. Ten months later our son Raphael was born, and within a year my husband had died.

"The wedding gift from my jeweler husband of a pair of diamond earrings was often pawned to pay for a sewing machine---or rent. I started a business of of fine bridal lingerie. 



Her first shop was on the corner here across from a park distinguished by a large black rock.
"In 1907 I opened a real shop on Fifth Avenue and 120th St near Mt. Morris Park [in Harlem.]  I borrowed $300 from my brother-in-law to open a bank account. The whole procedure so rattled me that I signed my name L-A-N-E. From that day on I was Lane Bryant.
At the time pregnancy was a deplorable condition (obvious result of S-E-X!) and not to be discussed or alluded to in polite society. Women who were "showing" stayed home.

Member of not-so-polite society 

Lena was persuaded by a customer to design something she could wear while entertaining at home that would not call attention to her condition and be somehow fashionable.

A great moment in women's history. 
Soon all the rich young matrons wanted what Lena called a Maternity Dress, 
even though the newspapers were too scandalized to advertise the garment at first.

Lena married Russian-born Albert Malsin in April, 1909. By 1911 they were bringing in $50,000 annually with their specialty fashion. Within a few years 5 million.
  "Albert was born on the Baltic shores, had studied engineering in Germany and had traveled widely."

 The 1910 census shows Albert and Lena living with Raphael now ten and baby Theodore. They have two live-in maids, Lizzie from Ireland and Kate Meyer from ?

Within a year of their marriage Albert is listed as the Clothes Manufacturer and Lena has no job at all. NONE.

Patent for Albert Malsin in 1914 for a "Ladies' 
Garment" designed to expand.

Who actually designed his patents is open to question. Lena and Albert shared an unusual understanding of space, the female torso and cloth and its drape. But Albert was more the business manager; Lena the designer.

Albert's 1918 draft registration. He lived at 1261 Madison Avenue
and was a Retail Merchant for Lane Bryant on West 38th St.

They left this luxury apartment for the suburbs of Mt. Vernon
after three children.

She and Albert realized there was a need for clothing that did not fit the petite figure. They (He?!?) measured 4,500 women, came up with flattering designs and began selling plus-sized clothing.

1935 ad for clothing to fit "Stout Women & Misses"

Lena lost her second husband in 1923 when Albert died in his early forties. He was ill for two weeks with what was diagnosed as influenza.

This complimentary obituary of Albert
as a valued immigrant was copied by
several papers.


She and her children carried on with the innovative clothing that became classic, inclusive style.



"I Love Lucy"
Lucille Ball continued to work while pregnant
and wearing a lot of polka dots.

Lena about 1950

 Jauna Martinez-Neal for A Perfect Fit by Mara Rockcliff

Read a review of the children's book: A Per­fect Fit: How Lena ​"Lane” Bryant Changed the Shape of Fashion

https://www.jewishbookcouncil.org/book/a-perfect-fit-how-lena-lane-bryant-changed-the-shape-of-fashion

Lena's 1950 autobiography "They Call Me Success Story" was published in the magazine Guideposts:
Read it here:


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