QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Transposed Quilts: More Ideas on the Term

 

New York Project, Relyea family, Ulster County
A Transposed Quilt????
A few weeks ago I posted about my search for "Transposed Quilts" mentioned in agricultural fair records after 1850 or so. What did that term mean?


Since then Louise Tiemann and I have been looking for the words "Transposed Quilt" in 19th-century publications, finding some repetitive how-to copy telling us that Transposed Quilts are a rather medieval style of applique similar to what we call "intarsia" today.

Louise found this reference in an American needlework book.

The old European textile technique works best with sturdy wool fabrics. 
U.S. museums have a few imported early examples but intarsia applique
 (or is it piecing?) is rarely seen here.
And it certainly has little to do with the kind of needlework winning prizes at New York agricultural fairs in the 1850s, those we see described as "transposed quilts."

With no definitions apparent Louise and I examined the context in which we found the words "transposed quilt."

It may be important that we see the earliest references in upstate New York.

Typical mid-19th c. quilt in fashionable style.
Oak Leaf and Reel attributed to 
Mary Hasbrouck Wilklow of Ellenville, Ulster County
New York project & the Quilt Index

Buffalo's 1857 newspaper tells us that Mrs. P. Staats won a first at the fair, topping Mrs. J. W. Brown who received a second and a third award for "Best transposed quilt." Mrs. Brown would be hard to find but Mrs. P Staats with her rather unusual Dutch name was easy to track.


Permelia Staats living at 117 Franklin in Buffalo's city center.,
Widow of Barent J. Staats.


Permelia's generation boasted several Barent Staats, one Mayor of Albany in the early 1840s. Her husband's Staats family had been in New York and earlier New Netherland for centuries with American family founders Abraham and Trijntje Staats arriving in what would become Albany in 1642.


Map of New Netherland before it became New York in the 1660s
Hudson River in red near Fort Orange--
later Albany---center of Dutch colonization.

The other clue in the context we noticed was the lack of the word "applique" in the list of style categories. It may very well be that "transposed" means appliqued. Louise found more information on Mrs. J. W. Brown's quilts identifying one as a "chintz applique' when it was entered but her prize was awarded in the "transposed quilt" category. We both think the odd term meant "applique quilt" among that group of upstate needlewomen who were familiar with three types of quilted bedcovers, described below in the list of New York fair winners with representative examples of each .

3 QUILT STYLES

It's also important to our conclusions that we find the term first in the New York area that was so persistently Dutch.

New York Historical Society
Petrus Stuyvesant 
Most Americans know of a single Dutch colonist, one-legged Peter Stuyvesant 
who surrendered New Netherland to the British in the 1660s.

Inheritors of Dutch culture have been ignored in American history with English descendants dominating politically and culturally for the past 400 years. 


Yet, Dutch culture, folkways and language have long survived in New York from Flatbush north to Niagara.
Red and green applique quilts shown here seem typical of those made by New Yorkers of Dutch ancestry about 200 years after New Netherland became New York.

My guess is that the term "transposed quilt" is regional English with roots in Dutch language and needlework classification systems that began in the home of the Dutch New Yorkers. The unusual name was used in a few other places as the century continued.
Lancaster County, Pennsylvania word use: 3 categories for prize winners:
Silk, calico and transposed.
Silk quilt [e.g. crazy etc.], Cotton pieced? and appliqued?

The whole search is Louise's and my idea of a good time. We do love those old newspapers.

Thursday, May 7, 2026

Morris Muse: Nellie Whichelo

 

Mary Eleanor "Nellie" Whichelo (1862-1959)
Head Designer at the Royal School of Needlework

Nellie Whichelo came from a family of professional artists including her father, grandfather and his brother. When 17 she and sister Georgiana (1856-1917) were hired by the Royal School of Art Needlework founded in 1872, a project of Queen Victoria's daughter Princess Helena (1846-1923).


Queen Victoria's daughters Louise on the left and  
Helena with what looks to be a needlework pattern

The school moved to ever impressive quarters over the decades.

1879
Late Victorian taste defined by the Royal School in their headquarters
the year the Whichelos joined the staff

The name was shortened in the 20th century.

The Royal School had two goals: Reviving "an almost lost art" (or at least producing designs to suit Arts & Crafts taste) and providing work for gentlewomen in reduced circumstances.


Queen Elizabeth II coronation embroidery

Designers and needlewomen there also served as official seamstresses for the Royal Family, still stitching for coronations, funerals and weddings.


The RSN was an important part of British public relations, entering work in international competitions such as America's 1876 Centennial Exposition.



Workroom 1912

Nellie quickly worked her way up in The Paint Room (the design department) becoming head designer there where she presided until 1939.



Many artists worked with the school to create a signature style, among them William Morris
and his good friend Walter Crane.

 
Portraits by Walter Crane (1845-1915) Photoshopped into a frame created from
 Crane's curtain border designed  for the Royal School

These two Whichelo sister never married, living together
 in the Putney area of London until Georgie died in 1917.

1911 Census

Edward VIII
Imagery contains symbols of
England and its territories

Nellie designed and supervised the embroidery on this coronation robe to be worn by King Edward VIII in 1937 but Mrs. Simpson disrupted those plans. Miss Whichelo was probably not a fan of "That Woman."


A small obituary in 1959 for an almost forgotten 97-year-old.
Lately Lynn Hulse who specializes in Arts & Crafts needlework recently has written a long-overdue
biography of Mary Eleanor Whichelo for the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.

PIECED DESIGN ROYAL STAR


Set on point in EQ8 using Morris Muse prints


Same set but two shading variations alternated

Eliminating the edge blocks for a different look.





Orange Tree
Embroidery pattern drawn from Walter Crane's sketch for a curtain border.
Embroider or applique this design to a square cut to 14-1/2" or larger.


Thursday, April 30, 2026

Transposed Quilts

 

A Transposed Quilt???

The fair board in Buffalo, New York mid-19th century seem to have been rather innovative in their  categories for textiles. In 1857 and 1858 they included a category for a "transposed quilt."
Buffalo, New York


Two years later the New York state fair showed four "transposed quilts" worthy of prizes.

The popular Godey's mentioned a transposed quilt in 1861--- with no explanation of the term for its widespread readers---including me.

The "transposed quilt" idea remained for the rest of the century and into the next as
we can see in the fair results in Bel Air, Maryland in 1901. Despite new fashions such as Log Cabins and Crazy Quilts local women were still winning prizes for transposed quilts.

Did everyone know what a transposed quilt was???
I still don't.


I got a clue from Marie Webster's 1915 book where she alluded to what we call "counterchange" in design today. What's dark in one area is light in the adjacent area.

A word long used in describing heraldry and coats of arms.


And you do see it in mid-19th century patchwork as in these
sampler blocks. But one counterchange design in a sampler
is NOT a transposed quilt.

This idea might be a "transposed quilt"----turkey red and white---
but this style is late 1880 and into the 20th century.
Not what was happening in Buffalo fifty years earlier.

American Folk Art Museum Collection
Quilt signed & dated: Mary Grow, 1856
Maybe this would be considered a transposed quilt--- what we
might call a Feathered Star in Scraps,

The idea of changing the colors and fabric for each block is 
not that common in the 1850s. The style may have been considered
innovative.
Cowan's Auction
Album date-inscribed 1853-1859. Alabama & Georgia.
Mostly seen in album quilts. Wouldn't you call this an Album
Quilt?

I am always warning aspiring Quilt Detectives to avoid trying to
read minds. You cannot read the minds of your family today. You certainly
shouldn't attempt to mind read actions over a century and a half ago.


And here I am doing it.
With few conclusions to draw from the whole exercise.