QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Friday, May 7, 2021

Chintz Stripes---A Wish List

 

Quilt documented by the Kentucky project
attributed by the family to Johanna Davis of Charleston,
South Carolina.

Like many early 19th-century Charleston quilts,
Johanna's is a celebration of furnishing-scale fabrics,
chintzes.

We'll never know if Joanna made this or bought it in Charleston.

This is the only detail photo I have of that floral stripe in the outer border although
several of the bird prints were popular and used often.

Charleston quilts are noted for their chintz borders. My theory is that in the age of sail, ships sailed from Europe to South America and north up the Atlantic coast, selling all their chintzes in Savannah and Charleston with some left over for Baltimore and few for the northern ports of Philadelphia, New York and Boston. (This theory may be way wrong, but I like it.) 


Another complex stripe, yardage
in the Cooper-Hewitt Museum, a gift
of Cora Ginsburg.


Winterthur has a piece in a slightly different colorway, darker in the lacey stripe.


The International Quilt Museum owns a chintz basket with the name Susan Pritchard Kirkwood
and date 1837. Susan was from the Charleston area.

Her quilt uses the light lacy stripe for the first border.

A check on Susan's genealogy reveals she wasn't born until 1858. She married David D Gibson and lived until 1931. Perhaps she inherited the quilt from her mother Sarah Jane Easterling Kirkwood who was born in 1830---or from a grandmother.

The North Carolina project photographed the light border in a quilt
attributed to Ann Black of North Carolina. 
https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=21-17-1191

It's in the collection of the Colonial Dames of North Carolina
in Wilmington. Someone might have shopped in Charleston for either fabric
or quilt. Wilmington is the next rather important port north of Charleston so
the fabric or quilt might have been purchased there.

Attributed to Margaret Seyle Burgess, Charleston Museum,
 a gift from her great-great granddaughter in 2010.
The Charleston convention of a panel and some chintz cutouts
in a medallion format with an elaborate chintz border.


A fern frond alternating with a floral arrangement.

  That neat stripe with the triple red floral
must have framed the wider stripe.

Another version of the fern frond. A different
floral arrangement, though, and not so
skillfully printed --- or maybe it's just the next
stripe over.

Merikay Waldvogel sent this photo of a South Carolina quilt in Spartanburg's
Price House with the fern frond as a wide border. Do note there are
two different floral arrangements left and right... same piece of fabric?


Collection of the Winterthur Museum. See a link at the bottom.

Well, since we are dreaming of chintzes here's my favorite. 

Inked on the back Anna B Legare.
Anna Berwick Legare O'Hear (1825-1905) lived in Charleston.

She married Dr. John Sanders O'Hear in 1845.

Same border print in a pieced star. Source?
Maybe Ladies' Circle Patchwork Quilts issue on South
Carolina quilts years ago. My notes say they photographed
it on Edisto Island near Charleston.

I predict we will remain chintz-stripe deprived in the near future.
So we'll have to dream or make them in Spoonflower to our order.

See more on chintz style in the American South and the United Kingdom here:
http://chintzpanelquilt.blogspot.com/2019/06/panel-5-part-3-style-old-world-and-new.html

Link to the Anna Legare quilt:

Monday, May 3, 2021

Pictorial Crazy Quilts in Cretonne

 

Found in the New Hampshire project. Photo from the Quilt Index.

Here's a distinctive quilt style that seems to be a New England regional idea. Quilts grow out of the fabric available and these pictorial, large-scale prints seem to have been abundant there in the 1880s and '90s.

The Boston Museum of Fine Arts owns a similar quilt with a large-scale floral border. The furnishing fabrics might have been called chintz but at the end of the 19th century the term was cretonne.

Oscar Wilde and his sunflower probably inspired by
his 1882 tour of the U.S.
See Louise Tiemann's post on the Oscar fabric

The James Garfield campaign print dates from 1880.

Several museums own similar examples:

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's also has an Oscar print.

Arab Lancers on horseback was a popular print.

Puppies! You wonder if these were not made
for children. What fun to talk about the pictures.

The above two details are from a quilt in the Spencer Museum of
Art at the University of Kansas. I took lots of detail photos
 but couldn't find a good all over shot.


The Moda/United Notions collection also has a block
style version.

Here's one signed and dated Harriet Smith, 1885 from Stella Rubin's shop.

Not crazy, just fussy cut squares including some cheater cloth.
Makes one wonder how so many stitchers acquired so many prints.
Factory cutaways?

From Florence Peto's collection, a medallion format.

This one also has a portrait of Chester Arthur who became President in 1881 after Garfield was assassinated. Style is more the cut-out-chintz applique that was out of fashion by the 1880s.


Another take on cut-out-chintz or Broderie Perse,
auctioned this year in New Haven, Connecticut.



So when you see one think "New England, 1880s-1900."

In 1886 the Mayflower won the America's Cup.

UPDATE: Julie Silber sent details of one in her collection dated 1886.

The bird fabric and the binding are a crepe, textured cretonne. 

It's also a form of Broderie Perse, cut-out chintz.
Blocks may be by different stitchers.

Mikado theme

Friday, April 30, 2021

Sawtooth---BlockBase+ and Vintage Examples

 


July 10, 1886

1886, Mrs. Reed whose recreation was "to piece bed-quilts" sent this pattern to the Prairie Farmer magazine suggesting an old fashioned color scheme of red or green on white.

Kind of like this one.

Quilters stitched a lot of variations on the basic sawtooth design
but Mrs. Reed's pattern is one of only a few actually published.

I added it to the new Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns
and BlockBase+, where it's one of the earliest published, named designs.
Marie Webster gave a similar design the name Double X in 1915.

From Webster's book.

I've got a collection of Sawtooth nine patches here with unpieced centers. 

From the Ohio project, published in their book.
I've always liked this quilt, which looks 1840-1860.


I drew it up in EQ8 by exporting the BlockBase+ file, recoloring
it and setting it side by side, but not on point. I used fabrics
from my new Ladies' Legacy repro line from Moda.
 

Details from about the same time


Variations date back to the 1840s at least.

From a Copake auction, maybe 1870s


That blue-violet and the paisleys and the stripes
1870-1890?

Looks Pennsylvania German, 1880-1910?
Alternated with a plain block.

A pretty good plan.

Is that a claret-colored red? Early 20th century?

Green calicoes tough to date.

This block---early 20th century

Lowndes County Historical Society in Georgia


Several from online auctions---all look to be early 20th


Sashing a good idea---here it is in Ladies' Legacy.

About 1900

Red & white hard to date, after 1880
It's a good idea, a counter-change coloring
with dark blocks and light blocks alternating.
But she had trouble.

Hmmm.

A 10" finished block using the BlockBase+ rotary cutting feature.