Specialization 2: Charles Swainson, Calico Printer

 

Popular chintz furnishing fabric probably printed at

Bannister Hall printworks near Preston, Lancashire, England

In the last post we looked at early specialization in cotton manufacturing, focusing on an American mill that limited production first to spinning raw cotton into yarn and later added weaving patterned cloth to their product. New Hampshire's Amoskeag mill focused on woven design and were respected for their tickings. Amoskeag mills did not print fabric.

Feather-proof ticking for bedding a specialty

In contrast we can look at the famous English mill Bannister Hall, well-known for it's printed cottons. The factory was established near Preston, Lancashire about 1798 by Richard Jackson and John Stephenson. Brothers Charles & John Swainson bought it in the first decade of the 19th century and made quite a success of it with various partners, becoming famous for their "furniture" chintzes.

Preston Digital Archives

Charles Swainson (1780-1866) of Bannister Hall printworks,

whose occupation in the early 19th century was clearly listed

 over and over. An 1814 mortgage describes him as "Charles 

Swainson of Walton-le-Dale, calico-printer." 

The Swainson mills, dedicated to other processes in cotton production had many names. 

Here's a list of a few I've found:

• Bannister Hall Printworks
• Charles Swainson & Co.
• Swainson, Birley and Company
• Fishwick Mills
• The Big Factory at Fishwick
• Bannister Hall Print Works in Higher Walton
• Swainson & Dennys
• Swainson, Birley & Turton

In 1840 Parliament conducted hearings into copyright, pirating and imports. The Chair asked Mr. E. Brooke, printer in a rival firm: "Do you produce the finer article of furniture printing, or those of more ordinary sale?" Mr. Brooke admitted, "There is a finer branch of furniture than we produce, produced by Messrs. Swainson of Bannister-Hall near Preston; they are the principal house for the production of the finest goods."

Cooper-Hewitt Museum

Attributed to Swainson's Bannister Hall

Bannister Hall indeed had a reputation as the best mill specializing in printing of furniture or furnishing prints in England, the fabric we call chintz. The Swainsons were innovators in mechanizing cotton printing with cylinder (roller) machinery and developing technology to create new colors and color combinations.

Metropolitan Museum of Art

We could go on about the designs, printing processes and people of Bannister Hall and someone should indeed write a book (that book idea may be old-fashioned technology.) However, the purpose here is to show the specialization of a textile magnate like Charles Swainson who was usually described as a calico printer in his early years. He eventually opened other mills for other steps in cotton production.

Obituary 1866

Looking for more mentions of various textile specializations? English lists of bankrupts are full of them. It was an iffy business.

1849 Manchester Weekly Times

 Draper's shop operated by Robert Waithman (1764-1833) in London

"Drapers" who made and sold clothing often went bankrupt.

Next Post: Post-Civil War specialization in the U.S.