QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Monday, September 15, 2025

When Pigs Fly Award

 

The Know-It-Alls group of quilt historians is inviting you to our first awards ceremony for our
"When Pigs Fly Award for Quilt History."
Right here. Right now.

It's a virtual ceremony about a real problem.
We'll be awarding the virtual trophy.

Lynne, Barbara, Debby, Julie, Merikay, Tara, Ronda & Alden

And we got virtually dressed up for the ceremony. Note there are more than 6 Know-It-Alls. Smart people keep showing up.

Also note the virtual venue is rather down-scale. We were going to do a Versailles-like ballroom and then we realized how overdone this look is currently, so we just rented a hall in Queens.
One of our biggest expenses was the light strings of flying pigs.


TA-DA
The first Flying Pig statuette goes to Jacqueline L. Tobin and Dr. Raymond Dobard for their book Hidden in Plain View: A Secret Story of Quilts and the Underground Railroad, published in 2000.


We had other suggestions but this decades-old fantasy 
was an overwhelming favorite for worst quilt history ever.

Time Magazine wrote about the book's success in 2007: 
"Tobin is a teacher, collector, and writer of women’s stories from Denver, Colorado. She reported hearing about the UGRR Quilt Code when she bought a quilt from a woman named Ozella McDaniel Williams at a Charleston, S.C., market in 1994. Williams told Tobin that for generations women in her family had been taught an oral history that stated that quilt patterns — like log cabins, monkey wrenches and wagon wheels — also served as directions that helped slaves plan their escapes. Since she lacked historical data to back up Williams’ claim, Tobin enlisted her friend Raymond Dobard, a quilter and art history professor affiliated with Howard University, to help research and write the book, which is [in 2007] in its sixth printing and has sold over 200,000 copies.”

Dr. Raymond Dobard (1947-2019)

We doubt the recipients will be showing up. For one thing Raymond Dobard's award has to be posthumous as he died of dementia in his early seventies about five years ago. We would have enjoyed seeing Raymond again as he was a charming professor in the Art History Department at Howard University and a quiltmaker. (So charming we almost forgive him for getting deep into something he probably should have avoided.)

Fath Davis Ruffins (1954-2024)

The late Fath Davis Ruffins, historian at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, criticized the book and its concept in a 2003 newspaper feature. “It's made up of speculation and supposition….There are no sources." She pointed out that the book offers no information about Ozella Williams' background. "They do not provide a single shred of evidence that this is true."

Jacqueline Tobin’s response: “It’s frustrating to be attacked and not allowed to celebrate this amazing oral story of one family’s experience. Whether or not it’s completely valid, I have no idea, but it makes sense with the amount of research we did.” 

The successful book has made Tobin quite a bit of money in royalties because people who want to hear such stories are unable to apply any historic method or critical analysis to the “Quilt Code.”

Ms. Tobin lives in Denver and maintains an unpleasant Facebook page with little reliance on a historic method or factfinding in looking at current events, rather consistent with her notions about quilt history. https://www.facebook.com/jacqueline.tobin.33/

Lisa Evans, who describes herself as a medieval historian, reminded us in a 2017 Daily Kos post, that the book’s single source, the late Ozella McDaniel Williams (1922-1998) was a “Howard University alumna who had worked as a school administrator and was selling quilts to make a little extra money in her retirement.  Other dealers at the antiques mall have confirmed that she was well known for embellishing the story of her quilts to impress the tourists.” Lisa wrote to Tobin concerning the accuracy of her book and received nothing more than a form letter retelling the story of Ozella Williams and the antique mall.

 Hidden in Plain View thus deserves our first “When Pigs Fly Award for Quilt History.”


A word about our statuette. It may look like an Oscar or an Emmy but in keeping with the current trend for glitter gone amuck we must confess it's a Styrofoam pig spray painted gold.

The new Gilded Age

Monday, September 8, 2025

Nancy Page Quilt Column: Ghost Artist!

 


Florence May (Mae) LaGanke Harris (1886-1972) maintained a popular syndicated quilt pattern column in the mid-20th-century, despite the facts that she never put a stitch in a quilt and considered the whole idea of quiltmaking "laborious."


Florence was a food writer, a dietician and one-time teacher at Cleveland's Case Western Reserve University. In 1919 she moved to Oakland, California for a Home Economics position, returning to Cleveland four years later as the Cleveland Plain Dealer's Home Economics Editor with a daily homemaking column focused on food. She also was a food editor at rival paper the Cleveland Press. Above she gives us her opinion about quiltmaking, an art she never took up.

"I have never turned a stitch on a quilt myself in my life."


Florence was a Cleveland native, growing up in this neighborhood at 13091 Forest Hill Avenue.
Her father Robert LaGanke emigrated from Prussia to Ohio in 1860 where he married Lillie Isabel Greene in 1883. Florence was educated in New York at the Pratt (Mechanics) Institute and Columbia University where she earned a Bachelor's degree in education. 


In 1923 she married English-born widower Frederick A. Harris (1872-1947) who was in sales. They lived here at 21180 Colby Road in Shaker Heights.

Drat! We missed the 1972 estate sale.


Florence wrote many cook books and served for years as telephone advisor for homemaking questions at the newspaper. Did people call about quilt stitches as well as soufflés? I cannot imagine Florence coming up with a good answer as to the differences between a buttonhole stitch and a blanket stitch.

D for Doll from the popular Alphabet Quilt

This non-stitcher fell into the quilt column business due to reader interest at the onset of the great quilt revival. The Nancy Page column ran for 17 years from 1928 until 1945 (Louise corrects me: 1927-1944), appearing in papers around the country and in Canada. The Tuesday column describing a fictional quilt club was attributed to the appropriately Colonial byline Nancy Page. (Certainly "LaGanke" would not evoke the New England ideal.)  I imagine Florence's contribution was the narrative and perhaps the choice of pattern to feature as she had a collection of antique quilts. Readers also sent in favorites.

The Nancy Page Club stories take a strange narrative position. Instead of just giving readers instruction we overhear "Nancy" talking to her club members.


Many of us are fans of "Nancy's" art and design rather than the instructions. Whether simple pieced blocks or more elaborate applique series the patterns are skillfully drawn and lettered. 
One signature style is the rounded lettering.
Rather up-to-date and simple.

Someone has counted 21 27 Nancy Page series patterns; the Swallow is from the "Quilt of Birds" series.

1931 Series pattern for the Garden Bouquet

When Florence LaGanke Harris was inducted into the Quilters Hall of Fame in 2022, Amy Korn wrote about her:


This was the first in-person meeting after the Covid lock down so the usual audience was not in attendance and Louise Tiemann's presentation about the column did not receive the notice it should have. We are going to call your attention to her findings and a different way at looking at "Nancy Page" here.
Do note that little squiggle in the lower right corner of the "Balloon Flower."

One of Nancy's popular series pattern Garden Bouquet


That is the artist's signature logo and the artist is NOT
Florence LaGanke Harris.
She had, not a ghost writer, but a ghost artist.

Cleveland Press photo of their artist Ann Kerven, 1925,
with her logo signature

Anastasia Kerven, 1913 Yearbook from the Mechanic's Institute

Illustrator Ann Kerven also attended New York's Mechanic's [Pratt] Institute. She and Florence may have met in New York or Cleveland or the newspaper may just have signed Ann to fill in the art that Florence had no interest in.

Ann did a great job. But all these years we've been thinking these graceful appliques were Florence LaGanke Harris designs.

Ann not only drew the signature series diagram with "a tall, slim voguish model" holding the quilt
but it seems quite likely she drew the designs and patterns too

Cleveland Plain Dealer, 1936

Note the signature at the top right.

It's time to start thinking about Nancy Page as two people----Ann Kerven and Florence LaGanke.

Summer Garlands 1936

I appreciate Louise Tiemann and Merikay Waldvogel (avid newspaper sleuths) for bringing Ann Kervin's work to my attention.

Silhouettes were a 1920s design craze. Here are two from an inhouse
publication where Ann worked in 1923; she's pictured on the left.

A little more about the elusive Ann....

1940. Ann at 30 was living alone perhaps in an apartment at 2894 East 132nd Street in Cleveland. No occupation listed. In the early '40s she married Robert Delahanty but he did not live long dying in February 1944 of a heart attack. UPDATE:  Louise notes she says that although she said she was 30 in 1940---people were allowed to be dishonest about their ages back then---she was 48.)


Robert's obituary

The Nancy Page Quilt Club column ended that year.


We need to give the artist the credit for the designs we have long admired. 

As Louise writes:

"I have always said the popularity of the column was due to the illustrations…when you look at a newspaper page…what catches your eye…not all the text, but the picture….then you read the article ….On a page crammed with text….the drawing of Ann Kerven stood out."

Alphabet Quilt
From Nancy Page (Harris/Kerven)

My favorite Ann Kerven---1931's Magic Vine,
which I made of plaids and pastels.

Sunday, August 31, 2025

Abominable Tariffs #5: Printing Technology

 

Fools' Square by Jeanne Arnieri


The whole tariff debacle grows more confusing by the day. 
A federal appeals court late Friday held that the current president does not have the authority to impose taxes on imports. Rather that is Congress's authority. 

"The ruling is a major setback for the White House and it threatens to stall much of [the] second-term agenda," according to reporters Jacob Bogage & Emily Davies. Well, we shall see, but no matter what happens tariffs or import taxes are not going to bring back the American fine cotton printing industry.

In the last post we looked at agricultural reasons the U.S. no longer produces fine Sea Island cotton here. In this final post on tariffs we'll look at manufacturing.

King McKinley and his tariffs

Some economists believe tariff taxes on imported goods encourage domestic manufacturing. These "Protectionists" tell us that less international trade is better for American business. Here's reason #2 why we cannot produce quality cotton prints in the United States.

Dark shading indicates a nation taxed by American tariffs in August, 2025

John Maynard Keynes irritating a lorry driver
Another belief system advocates Keynesian economics, "unfettered free trade."


As President Harry Truman once said...
On one hand and then on the other....

Eight Hands Around by Jeanne Arnieri


It's a philosophical difference.
If Truman had 8 economists he'd probably have 8 opinions as we do today.
So how will the 2025 tariffs benefit cotton production in the American industrial system?

Here's information about printing technology and the slim chances of its return to American borders.

Empty Textile Mills

We abandoned our American textile technology in the last quarter of the 20th century. I wrote regularly for Quilters Newsletter back then and publisher Bonnie Leman asked me to do a story on why the U.S. quilt fabric mills like Cranston were closing. I phoned people at mills north and south, talking to the public relations office or sometimes, it seems, the last person in the building still answering the telephone.

The interviews indicated that American infrastructure and machinery for roller printing cotton could not compete with new technology that Asian nations were developing. Japan, South Korea, etc. saw the future---computerized screen printing. Their governments subsidized what would become a pillar of their economies. 
Roller printing once done in those obsolete American mills is long gone.
 Most of the fabric you buy today is screen-printed in digitized production lines.

Forty years ago enterprising nations began building factories and subsidizing the development of the new, computerized screen technology that replaced old roller printing machinery. They realized that profit from fabric production was beneficial to their national interests and worth the investment.


This was in the 1980s as I recall. Conservative American economists reversing the hated "Heavy Hand of Government" were opposed to any similar federal subsidies for our textile printing industry. If industry could not make it on their own let them quit. Which they did.
The lack of support snowballed....


Alma Carrigan was one of the last employees to
work in the Chicopee Mills cotton spinning room in 1975
before the New Hampshire mill closed.

 Did we ever publish a Quilters Newsletter story on the mill closings? I don't recall but I'd guess we decided it was too depressing and too political for an upbeat quilt magazine.

Some surviving mill buildings have been re-purposed as housing,
a good use for our architectural heritage, 
but not one that will bring back American textile production.

As things stand today: We are just going to have to pay more for our fine cotton prints. 

Founder Benjamin Franklin by David Martin

As Franklin wrote in 1789: 
"Our new Constitution is now established, and has an appearance that promises permanency; but in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." 


As things stand this weekend

1912 Puck
Food prices go up with tariffs too (See Mexico above.)
Puck Magazine had a lot to say.

UPDATE: September 6. I see quilt prints are going for $12.48 - $13 a yard online.
Maybe up about 50 cents  to a dollar over the past few weeks.


The 20th & last pieced block for the
"Tariffs & Troubles" sampler.

Jeanne Arnieri's top...No templates.
Twelve of the 20 blocks.

See the first four posts on import taxes and quilters' cotton:

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/08/abominable-tariffs1-free-trade.html

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/08/abominable-tariffs2-civil-war.html

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/08/abominable-tariffs-3-de-minimus-import.html

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/08/abominable-tariffs4-domestic-cotton_0520044382.html

UPDATE:
I learn from my weekly Craft Industry Alliance News that Kate Lindsay has written a piece for Slate about tariff impacts on the yarn industry and knitters.