QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Tuesday, February 3, 2026

Early American Patchwork: Orange Peel Blocks?

 

D.A.R. Museum
Center of an early quilt possibly made before 1800


This medallion with a basket center came up when I was searching for accurate quilts
made in the last quarter of the 18th century to celebrate our
250th anniversary this year.

Colonial Williamsburg

The curved "melon" or "orange peel" border is similar in another early quilt attributed to the Philower family of Virginia.

The curved leaf shape could be pieced or appliqued. And variations became popular in the early years of American independence after 1800, particularly as a repeat block pattern.

International Quilt Museum
Byron & Sara Rhodes Dillow Collection
Possibly New Hampshire, 1820-1840, 2008.040.0083

Such repeating block-style designs were not stitched until the 19th century when the rather sophisticated curved design developed, often pieced in the contrasting Pompadour browns & purples common at the time for dresses.



Spencer Museum of Art at the University of Kansas
Sally Casey Thayer Collection

See more quilts in this popular brown & white combination at these two posts:
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2018/11/dark-ground-chintzes-4-what-color-is-it.html


One pattern variation is a square enclosing a shape with curved sides.
 In these early versions the quiltmakers set up a high contrast
 between the dark & light florals as had been a fabric fashion for several years
around the turn of the century.
The alternate shading idea is called counterchange.
What's dark in one block is light in the next.
Connecticut Project & the Quilt Index
Dates: Probably 1800-1820 on the brown & white versions.

Deerfield Museum Collection
And with changes in color perhaps 1810-1840

The dramatic blue border print has a rather short repeat indicating it is a roller
print after 1810 rather than an earlier plate print or toile.

The Orange Peel pattern continued popular, becoming a staple in the commercial pattern business that began in the late-19th-century. BlockBase shows several variations.

The top row is color variations on the classic design with #1520 a shape variant.
Patterns in the bottom row have more seams but a similar effect when set all over.
1527b perhaps 1820s-1830s

The Connecticut project recorded this quilt made in Woodstock, attributed to two women:
Sophronia Barrett (1822-1917) & Emily Vinton (1843-1919), probably mother & daughter.
In pink & green calicoes, perhaps post-Civil-War.
https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=17-13-23

The earliest published name and design seems to be this
from an early (1890 or so) Ladies Art Company catalog
where an Orange Peel cardboard pattern cost a dime. 

One can see the origin of the name
although Ruth Finley in her book published in 1929 called it Melon Patch.
The spherical melon, like an orange, is usually eaten after being cut into curved sections.

 In 1929.the same year Finley's book was published, pattern designer 
Ruby McKim called a version "Lafayette Orange Peel"
 in her Kansas City Star column adding a historical tale to 
the Ladies' Art Company's name .



Version from the syndicate using names Laura Wheeler & Alice Brooks

I was disappointed this rather sophisticated repeating block design is just not an 18th-century
 early pattern but "after 1820 or so." And what did LaFayette have to do with it?

More on the pattern's "history" in the next post.

Tuesday, January 27, 2026

Sewing Insurrection



Wistar Family  Quilt, blocks inscribed1842-1843
IQSC collection #2005.059.0001

Needlework has long been a medium for dissent.

Quilt inscribed 1814



      
Our current culture inspired by the ideals of Beavis, Butt-Head and Bro demands protest from the streets to the sewing room.

Sew, Sue Me!

The Seamsters' Union is working on their second
Sunbonnet Sue protest quilt "A Pieceful Protest." My job this week is
to find some gold lame. 

If you are looking for inspiration do read the posts on our Facebook group page:
SuperSueQuilts 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1133604988289574

And there are plenty of other needleworkers using textile media to protest and demand change. Below a few of the many I found online:
Quilt: Against Erasure
Lisa Rackner
 

Embroidery: Days of Rage
Melora Bales at Harvest Moon TieDye



Embroidery: Tiny Pricks Project
Diana Weymar 

Weymar's first Tiny Pricks project

Diana Weymar has been advocating rebellious needlework since 2018 with her "Tiny Pricks Project" (it's a double entendre, kids.) She began embroidering quotes from the 45th President on vintage needlework items. 


Over the years the project has evolved into embroidered quotes from numerous stitchers onto textiles of all kinds ---quotes both from the 47th Commander in Chief and many from his critics. 



Most are stitched to old handkerchiefs, good use for an archaic textile. She has thousands of donations and has exhibited them occasionally in the past seven years. “ 'Tiny Pricks' is a digital quilt that never stops growing." 

Her Tiny Pricks Instagram page:
https://www.instagram.com/tinypricksproject/?hl=en


SewMaryHappy recently posted this on Instagram. Look for the keyword: protestquilt

And then there is the T-shirt--- a textile serving as the broadside poster of our times.

Friday, January 23, 2026

Quilt Journeys: State Blocks for EQ

 



For the U.S.A.'s 250th Anniversary this year I've been considering quilts to celebrate with several posts here on what kind of patchwork would be authentic for the18th-century's last quarter during and after our Revolutionary War. Scroll back to see a few.....



But the celebratory quilt doesn't have to be period-correct. We can reflect our own style in a block-style quilt honoring the fifty states or our own home with Quilt Journeys, a new computer program for Electric Quilt Software.

It's an add-on program for EQ8 with pieced blocks and appliqué motifs that represent the United States and Canada alongside fun, historical facts. The program adds dozens of blocks to your Block Library and you look them up by state. Like the rest of EQ's content you can print the block any size or alter it if you like.

Here's your options for Alaska's pieced blocks.

You also get patterns for finished designs that can be customized for
the various states. This is a page for Illinois.

The series began when I wrote regularly for Quilter's Newsletter Magazine beginning in the mid 1970s with America's Bicentennial Celebration.

My sources were earlier publications that printed designs named for states and cities.



As we entered the computer age EQ adapted the series to a program on a disk in the back of a book in 2001.

This is going to be a lot easier. More later.....
Read a post on the EQ blog here:

Monday, January 19, 2026

American Quilt Style: Democracy Blooms

National Museum of American History
Smithsonian Institution

Quilt date-inscribed 1795 M Campbell. Detail. 
The dark brown is reverse applique with
the light overlay cut to reveal the print underneath.

Considering stitching a period reproduction of a quilt for the 250th anniversary of democracy this year? I've been looking at museum quilts that reflect the first 25 years of American independence and have come up with a couple of ideas. See posts here:

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/11/250th-anniversary-quilt-pattern.html

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/12/knickerbocker-puzzle-early-american.html

Further digging has inspired me to include a third pattern. Rather than a a patriotic eagle in the center a vase with a spindly floral bouquet seems to be most appropriate based on reliably dated patchwork quilts from the first years of our independence.

D.A.R. Museum Collection

The vase at the top of the post is reverse appliqued, a technique requiring skill. Are the rest of the early versions reverse appliqued rather than conventional, onlaid applique?

A pattern below with many of the common designs seen in the five similar quilts:
  • Floral container with handles
  • Various flowers and leaves on long stems
  • Symmetrical arrangement (2 way bilateral symmetry)
  • Repeated elements such as the 8-lobed rose, tulip and an iris-like floral
  • Applique image is cotton with dark brown (plum, chocolate) background & floral print, popular at the time for women's garments.
Collection of Historic Deerfield
Gown 1780-1790  




Digital sketch of the central vase in Hannah John's star medallion, 
date-inscribed 1797 documented by the Maine project. You can see
Hannah's bouquet is taller and rangier than the pattern here.

Art Institute of Chicago Collection
Detail :Bedrug attributed to Hannah Johnson (1770–1848) 
New London County, Connecticut, initialed & dated 1797.

Lynne Zacek Bassett, the expert on American bed rugs that preceded patchwork quilts as popular and valuable bedcovers, reminded me of common design in these woolen spreads. This one by Hannah Johnson is similar to Hannah John's 1797 patchwork quilt.

Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection
As is this bedrug dated 1796 with initials NL, attributed to Connecticut.

Caption from Lynne's 2022 exhibit at the Florence Griswold Museum 
New London County Quilts & Bed Covers, 1750–1825

The visual and biographic coincidences led Lynne to realize that American women in the newly independent state of Connecticut were embroidering copies of European loop-pile bedrugs in a regional fashion in New London County, probably obtaining patterns and instruction in needlework classes. That explanation also may explain similarities in the patchwork vase quilts. A needlework teacher offered a popular pattern and/or lessons....

...to the first generation of American women enjoying
 new access to European prints


Below are two sheets to print on 8-1/2 x 11" paper.
The finished quilts are small but do see this pattern for more borders.
------------

Another border option is a dog-tooth applique border they called Van Dyck style trim. 
Jeanna Kimball shows you how to stitch a period border in her Ultimate Visual Guide


The footed vase a standard image for centuries