QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Monday, April 6, 2026

Updated-Backdated Embroidery Style




Considering ideas for a 250th Anniversary Quilt to
mark this year we've looked at the state flowers & birds
fashion of the mid-20th century at this post:

Re-working this embroidery style a century later is only
going to appeal to the nostalgic---of which you might be one.
The aesthetic problem is the datedness of the look. Outline embroidery
was so popular from about 1880 to 1980 that it defined the craft back then.

From Crazy Quilts & Redwork in the 1880s through
the fashion for state flowers, etc.

Laura Wheeler design for State Flowers

The idea of  pictorials outlined in thread replaced the centuries-old technique of filling in the shapes with a variety of stitches.


Early-18th-century filled embroidery

Embroiderers learned a number of filling stitches.

A new era of sharing pattern began about 1880 with a couple of innovations in printing.
One: Printers were able to illustrate inexpensive publications.

Page from Peterson's Magazine showing 
typical late-19th-century embroidery design in outline
form. Did the editor expect you to fill in the butterfly?

Two: Designers like Briggs & Company could print a new hot transfer method in their publications.



Transfer patterns from 1913
Heat released the inked outline.

Read much more about this technology at Mrs. Depew:

Modern Priscilla 1925
At first the outlines were meant to be filled in with fabric or stitches
but embroiderers soon found an outlined chain stitch or running stitch attractive.




I heard Ginny Gunn explain the whole fashion in a couple of sentences that went something
like this: "Limitations in printing in the 1880s dictated the illustrator show an outline with 
instructions to trace the image and fill it in. Of course, they just traced 
it and outlined it in embroidery---no  filler."

Typical outline embroidered in a small, neat chain stitch
Another example of commercial needlework shaping style.

Advice to be ignored in the Omaha World-Herald 1938


Bright colored threads of the time defined the look as did comics
illustration style. One did not mix those threads as in combining
two or three of different shades.



That outline look replaced two techniques. One---traditional
filling stitches. Two---Applique plus Embroidery

TRADITIONAL FILLING STITCHES

The Kensington stitch was a long and short filler stitch taught
by the influential Royal School of Art Needlework, located in Kensington, London.




Satin Stitch---one length


APPLIQUE PLUS EMBROIDERY

I'm thinking birds from Quilt Journeys with variations of filled applique stitches....
Simple shapes, which is where I need to start.

The second style advocated by the Kensington school:
 Combination of appliqued fabric plus embroidery

A style that became a characteristic of the Glasgow School of Embroidery

Classic Stickley gingko pillow design repro by Dianne Ayers combining
applique plus embroidery

Ann MacBeth design 
Glasgow School of Embroidery


Tea Cozy with appliqued leaves & florals outlined in a satin stitch


Trickling down....

 
Combination of Morris Muse fabrics and a neat, contrasting chain
stitch around each shape.


Sue Spargo has led a small revolution in taste using combined applique & embroidery. 
Her applique fabrics are primarily wool but she also uses plain and print cottons.


One could use all those state flower drawings with a filled or applique + embroidery technique.

A Laura Wheeler Sunflower appliqued with
decorative stitching. 

EQ8 with Quilt Journeys Add On

It's all a design experiment. I think I'd be better off using the simpler state flowers and birds from Quilt Journeys. Here's a Columbine for Colorado.



Wednesday, April 1, 2026

Take A Chance or Two: Fundraisers for 2026

 


Every once in a while I scroll for Opportunity or Raffle Quilts online to see what's new and if there are trackable design trends. This spring I haven't seen much in the way of  style trends---quilts from various guilds are diverse. A minor trend is one our Kaw Valley Quilt Guild is participating in. As members age older quilts are being returned to raffle off once again. This year's KVQG star was made for auction 15 years ago, won and was recently given back to raise more funds. It's mostly fabrics from a Moda collection of fabric Terry Thompson and I did called Seneca Falls.

Stitched by The SewWhatevers: Jerry Van Leer, Wendy Turnbull, Roseanne Smith, 
Janet Perkins, Nicki Listerman, Carol Jones,  Sarah Fayman,
 Georgeann Eglinski, Barbara Brackman.
 Long-Arm quilting by Lori Kukuk

On the Left: #1997.007.0660 IQM from the James Collection. 
Pennsylvania. 1840-1860
Design was inspired by a Star of Bethlehem quilt in the collection of the International Quilt Museum.

Many guilds are making tickets available on line as is Kaw Valley so you can try your luck in the comfort of your own scrolling spot.

Orange County, California for Guide Dogs of America

Or if you'd like to mail a check for tickets at $5 each we will enter your name.

Kaw Valley Quilters Guild
ATTN: Opportunity Quilt Tickets
P.O. Box 1481
Lawrence, KS 66044
Allen Quilters' Guild

Omaha Quilters' Guild

Ozark Piecemakers

This wonder by the late Freddie Moran was donated by her family.
Drawing in July, Sisters Oregon. 

Friday, March 27, 2026

Morris Muse: May Morris

 

Portrait by Dante Gabriel Rossetti May about 10
Mary "May" Morris (1862-1938)

May and mother Jane 

May Morris was truly her father William's design partner, designing and stitching the pieces sold in Morris & Company's decorating shop. She managed the textile department, creating her own prints in Morris style and continuing in his path after he was gone.

MORRIS & COMPANY DECORATORS
449 Oxford Street
The firm's showroom was situated here from 1877 to 1919.

Description of what you might find at the shop

Woman at work seemingly pleased with the results


After her father died in 1896 May went out on her own, primarily as a needlework teacher for the influential Royal School of Art Needlework. She published a book and magazine articles on technique and design.


And impressed that end-of-the-century arbiter of 
taste Oscar Wilde.

Portrait of Oscar in a crazy quilt

Quilts from the Morris Muse prints:

Almost Maybe from LouannaMaryQuiltDesign
Click here to buy the pattern:
https://www.facebook.com/louannamaryquiltdesign

I gave friend Denniele Bohannon yardage from this line several weeks ago. She used the gray colorway to create a terrific pattern in her signature style emphasizing secondary patterns. Becky Collis long-arm quilted it. Denniele says it's done with templates and has no Y seams.




A SAMPLER QUILT

Moda asked Wendy Sheppard to give us an updated sampler
for Morris Muse.
"Oh Happy Day" uses a Fat Quarter Bundle
for a 76" square quilt.

Patchwork was not an interest of the Morrises who counted on embroidery as THE textile decorating technique.


William Morris began embroidering as a  young man trying to
capture the appearance of old tapestries. He worked with many
women over the years to perfect the look he wanted.
Daughter May was his chief artist.
From the Victoria & Albert Museum Site

Pattern for Morris-style Embroidery

Flower Pot
Father and daughter designed this popular piece together when she was young. The Victoria and Albert Museum has an example that May embroidered in the 1890s..

Linda Parry showed a detail of one version.
Meg Andrews once had this in her inventory.
Several examples of the Flower Pot by various hands have
survived. Pattern and finished panels must have sold well at the shop.

Pattern for a 12" block
One side is the same as the other---just flipped.

Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago

Embroidered panels often were incorporated into fire screens which one could buy finished at the showroom.

See more interpretations of the Flower Pot design.

May on the left with Jane (Jenny) Morris (1861-1935)

May's older sister Jennie was afflicted by a case of grand mal epilepsy becoming more handicapped over her life due to seizures and medication. Her mother Jane noted in 1901 the she was "so much slower in speaking and apparently in thinking than she was a year ago." To her mother every seizure was "as if a dagger were thrust into me." Jennie died in an institution in her mid seventies.

May and her father were quite active in socialist politics as was her husband Henry Halliday Sparling, who worked for Morris..

Collection of the Cheltenham Gallery & Museum
May next to her husband with the bearded 
George Bernard Shaw drawing their attention.

The Homestead and the Forest
Kelmscott Manor Collection

May and Jane must have had plans when they embroidered
 this crib quilt designed by May before her wedding.

Detail of The Homestead and the Forest. 
Mottoes and quotes of various types are embroidered in the borders, among them:
"Love me; Love my dog."

May and Henry were engaged for four years before their 1890 marriage and married for seven. Romantics like to think her true love was the elusive Shaw who indeed was living with them when husband Henry moved out in 1897. The following year Shaw married Charlotte Payne-Townsend despite his oft-stated position against marriage.

Mary Francis Vivian Lobb (1878 – 1939) 

During World War I May met Mary Lobb who soon moved into Kelmscott Manor to live with May the rest of her life. May left Mary rights to live in the house after her death in 1938. Mary Lobb died the following year.


May and Mary at Kelmscott Manor

Embroidery patterns
Lynn Hulse, May Morris designs: “The very soul and essence of beautiful embroidery”, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 2025

Victoria and Albert Museum article on Morris embroidery:

Details of the embroidery at The Unbroken Thread: