QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Friday, February 12, 2021

Ladies' Legacy Fabric Collection

 

I have a new/old fabric collection coming out in March. The prints in Ladies' Legacy are drawn from a quilt stitched around 1865.


I was thrilled to find this antique quilt, a rare Civil War survivor, a narrow bedcover stitched to warm a hospitalized Union soldier. The quilt is here today only because it never served its purpose, perhaps finished too late to be sent to a hospital at the front.

Soldier's Aid Societies made thousands of quilts for hospitals.
Few survived the war.

The print is Angelina's Slippers
Most of the prints are named for items the Soldiers' Aid Societies
sent to the Sanitary Commission for the hospitals. Slippers were requested.


My sampler, signed on only one block, was stitched by women art students at New York City's Cooper Union School. Their engraving teacher Gulielma Field held a daily quilting session in the engraving studios during the war.

Moda is offering an updated version of the sampler as a kit.
Susan Stiff and I designed a squarer quilt using the prints from the collection.



The print named Gertrude's Wrapper comes from the Flying Geese
block. The blocks in the original show different levels of sewing skill,
indicating Miss Field taught sewing as well as wood engraving.

The paisley stripe (Julia's Counterpane) is printed in four colorways.

Fabrics include reproductions of some of our favorites in the original quilt, scraps of cottons plain and fancy perhaps donated from students' homes and boarding houses.


Quilts made on the third floor of the Cooper Union building went down to the first floor where the Sanitary Commission offices distributed them to field hospitals.  Each print is also named for a someone who worked in the Sanitary Commission or the art school upstairs.


I hope the link works. Somedays blogger just doesn't cooperate. Do a web
search for 
Moda quilt kit Ladies Legacy
and see what happens.

Ask your shop in town or on line to order the Ladies' Legacy kit for you.
Shops have until February 24th to order the yardage I think.

The paisley is named Miss Field's Studio


The surviving Civil War sampler is the Ladies Legacy to us, giving us a vivid glimpse of women's work during the Civil War. We are contributing a portion of the sales to support the Quilt Research Center at the University of Nebraska Special Collections, which includes a comprehensive collection of vintage quilt patterns and papers from some of today's best-known quiltmakers. See the selvages.


And over at my Civil War blog we are going to do an appliqued block of the month based on New York albums. The first block will be up there as a free pattern on March 31st.

Block from the appliqued BOM Ladies's Aid New York Sampler by Becky Brown


Look for twelve blocks on the last Wednesday of the next twelve months into 2022.
https://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/

 


Monday, February 8, 2021

Early Sawtooth Stars: Pieced & Appliqued

 

Star quilt with block embroidered
"R ???? Porter... (Perhaps it says Her Own Work)
Done in the Year 1777"
American Museum in Britain

Americans have been making patchwork quilts since the days of our break with England in the 1770s.

Among the earliest patchwork patterns is one we'd call a Sawtooth Star, a nine patch of triangles and squares.


Over at my Civil War Quilts blog we are doing a Block of the Month in 2021 featuring variations on this nine-patch star to recall the real-life family of Little Women. 
See the first post of Hands All Around: Alcotts at War here:
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2021/01/hands-all-around-1-hidden-nine-patch.html

And join our Facebook group here

I was surprised to find how many early quilts with dates on them use the star.

1797 Hannah John
Maine quilt project


1787 Rachel Mackey, Chester County, Pennsylvania
America Hurrah Antiques

These are among the earliest of our date-inscribed quilts.
+
1783 Deborah Wilson
D.A.R. Museum

Deborah's patchwork is rather primitive.
Her sawtooth stars may be applique rather than pieced.


It's an easy block to piece---a good beginner block.
This one from the Porter quilt look to be pieced.



UPDATE: Lynne Bassett sends a photo of patchwork (not a bedquilt)  thought to be from the Colonial era: A paper pieced star for a hand screen (one held a small screen up to one's face to protect it from the heat of the fire) attributed to Deborah Hobart Clark of Danvers, Massachusetts who died in 1765. See the Massachusetts Quilts book.

Sophia Hooker, dated 1820
Collection Winedale, University of Texas

Star by E.L.H. dated 1839
Shelburne Museum

I have seen examples that are NOT pieced but appliqued.

Deborah Wilson may have appliqued blue triangles to a white background
in her 1783 quilt but here's another way to do it



A sketch

You take a square of chintz

You applique squares to the corners


Then you applique triangles to the edges.

And there you are.

More about early stars:

Thursday, February 4, 2021

Show Quilts in Missouri & Kentucky

  

Embroidered center of a pieced silk quilt by
Harriet Fry Hockaday (1831-1902),
Clinton County, Missouri
78"x 70"
Collection of the National Museum of American Art
Smithsonian Institution


Harriet knew this was a show stopper. The museum caption notes
she won prizes in fairs and here is a reference to one:

At St. Louis's 1868 Agricultural & Mechanical Fair
she cleaned up!

She won first prize in Silk Quilts and also an extra $25 in prizes, perhaps with this one and another first prize with a "Worsted quilt," wool. $25 in 1868 was worth nearly $800 in our terms.

You would not want to see her coming at fair entry time.

The St. Louis Fair Grounds



Here she is again in Kansas City three years later with the same two quilts.

Note she also entered some of her painting and won there too and she won $3 with ten yards of her rag carpet. Too bad we do not know where the worsted quilt is today.

It's a little bit surprising to find such an elegant quilt coming from
a woman who was born and raised in this house in northwestern Missouri.

Harriet may have made this quilt on her farm between
Lathrop and Plattsburg, Missouri

Harriet was born to Solomon & Susan Snap Fry in Clinton County, Missouri, near what is now Kansas City. Her father spent his first three years in Virginia and migrated to Kentucky where he may have met his wife. Harriet's census information at one point indicates her mother was Kentucky-born but most references say Indiana. The Frys married in Indiana in 1826 and settled in Clinton County. Harriet, the third of eight children was born May 4, 1831. Harriet's father was a prosperous farmer, the 1850 census shows him with assets of $20,000.

Harriet married farmer George Doniphan Hockaday in May 1850 when she was 19 and he was 31. Born in Greenup County, Kentucky east of Lexington, George's mother's brother was famous Missouri pioneer Andrew Doniphan, also a Kentucky native.

Harriet's Kentucky roots are apparent in the quilt. She may have had two Kentucky-born grandmothers,  a mother-in-law and a mother. Many of Missouri's early settlers were Kentucky immigrants.

Below a few elegant Kentucky quilts to show you the stylistic similiarities.

Embroidered hexagon quilt
by Mary Redmon Parrish (1847-1904) Cynthiana, Kentucky
MESDA Collection


Mary's masterpiece looks to be pieced of wools (worsteds). She was
married in 1869.

Similar silk quilt with floral embroidery

Silk quilt by Elizabeth Walker Stone of Kentucky
Winterthur Museum Collecton

"The Union For Ever"
I doubt Harriet Hockaday, living in rural Missouri during the
Civil War would have shared Elizabeth's Union sentiments
See a post here:


Quilt made in Nicholasville, Kentucky

By Arkansas Katherine Shely Fretzlen,(1836-1903)
 Nicholasville, Kentucky, south of Lexington.
Embroidered with dates 1776-1876
Collection of the D.A.R. Museum

https://www.dar.org/museum/featured-object/birthday-threads 

Here is her grave under the name Katheryn Frizlen:
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/21519602/kathryn-fritzlen


The Smithsonian collection also includes this embroidered silk quilt
with an unknown maker. Donated by Stewart Dickson.


It appears to be backed with another complete wholecloth silk quilt
just like Harriet Hockaday's is.


I'd bet the maker was from Kentucky.

Unless of course she was from Missouri.

Quilt by Mary Ann Hall Fletcher (1812-1899)
probably near Marshall, Missouri
Pictured in Missouri Heritage Quilts by Bettina Havig

I wondered if some of those Missouri girls did not go back to Kentucky
for schooling where they learned some very fancy fancywork.

AQSG member Jean Odom told some family history about needlework she'd inherited:
"My great grandmother, born in the Platte Purchase [up by the Nebraska/Iowa/Kansas border] in Missouri in 1838, was taken to Bardstown, Kentucky when she was 10 to be educated at the St. Joseph's school. Her family had been among the Catholic founders (from Maryland) of Bardstown. She did beautiful needlework. "

Monday, February 1, 2021

News on Encyclopdia & BlockBase+

 

I hear trucks came by the Electric Quilt warehouse last week
and unloaded the second printing of the third edition of my
Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns.

So the books are back in stock!


Check your favorite quilt shop (on-line or real-world) to
see if they are ready to ship it yet. The books are probably on their way.


So now we are working on an updated version of BlockBase, the computer
program, which will be BlockBase Plus for PC's and Macs.


I have to warn you though....
And I have learned the hard way.

You may have to get a new computer with a newer operating system to run it.

Apparently it won't work with Windows 7.
OK, so my computer is 11 years old.
Time flies when you are having fun.