QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Campaign Fabric: Biden-Harris

I've been making myself  Presidential campaign fabric
for the last couple of elections. Designed some Hillary Clinton & Barack Obama
prints, which were great souvenirs of the glorious and the god-almighty awful.

So it's time to dust off the old Photoshop machine and convert an antique print into a contemporary fabric. Here's the repeat in an 8-1/2" x 11" JPG that you can print on pre-treated cotton with your ink jet printer.


Three different colorways.


I'd like to put this up on Spoonflower to be ordered on demand there, which I did with the 2016 and 2012 prints but their more recent policy about using celebrity faces and names is a little confusing. I'll let you know if you can order it from them, but for now: print it off yourself.


The candidates' frames come from an 1880 repeat print for the Garfield/Arthur ticket. I'd like to re-do that flag repeat but it's pretty tricky. Simple half drop; lots of background is what I can do now. No overlap!

The eagle is from a commemorative bandanna.

Check back on my Spoonflower shop to see if the 2020 political campaign print is available.

UPDATE: You can buy it printed to order at Spoonflower:
Here's the link.

Spoonflower and all of the e-commerce business is experiencing a lot of delivery difficulties. I've been getting complaints about slow arrivals in the mail.


 Who would want destroy the post office that underpins so much of e-commerce? 

UPDATE: Don't read the comments. I don't, but I hear they are pretty mean-spirited.

Saturday, August 15, 2020

Margaret Younglove Calvert's Unusual Quilt

Tumbling Blocks, attributed to Margaret Younglove Calvert, 
72" x 77", estimated date:1850-1879
Cotton, wool, silk & mohair, Item number KM 4031
 Kentucky Library & Museum 
Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, Kentucky

While looking at Kentucky quilts I was intrigued by this one, attributed to Margaret Younglove Calvert whose daughter wrote the very popular book Aunt Jane of Kentucky. 


Beulah Strong illustration of Aunt Jane, 1907, holding a utilitarian quilt that probably mortified the author's mother. Aunt Jane is famous for asking: “Did you ever think, child, how much piecin’ a quilt’s like livin’ a life?"
Margaret Younglove Calvert (1829-1920)
Photographs are all from the collections of 
Western Kentucky University. This one looks to be from the 1860s.
The University has published much about the Calvert family
from Bowling Green, but the remarkable quilt is not often mentioned.


Blocks pieced of various clothing fabrics float in a geometric design.

The basic pattern is two shapes, probably pieced over papers. The 60 degree diamond
 makes shaded blocks separated by 6-sided shapes, elongated hexagons.

A version of this hexagonal idea

We can't see the fabrics too well in the photos but they are probably cut from dressmaking scraps and worn out clothing, pieces of cotton, wool and silk and combination fabrics in prints and plains.

I've shifted their photos greener as they look a little too pink.

The paper pieced central design appears to be appliqued to a blue
background...

which has faded as if it's been folded and exposed to light over
a period of time.

I would guess that the blue background is a manufactured quilted fabric, the kind
of machine quilted silk yardage often used for lining.

Something you might see inside a jacket or coat.

A shortcut late-Victorians used for the backs of crazy
quilts like this one.

Margaret Younglove Calvert, perhaps in her 30s.

WKU has much information about Margaret and even a little about her quiltmaking. She was born in Johnstown, Fulton County, New York, north of Albany, the ninth of ten children born to a shoemaker who died when she was fourteen, leaving her an orphan. 

Bowling Green in 1871

Two brothers who'd opened a drugstore in Bowling Green, Kentucky offered to raise her and she spent the rest of her life there, marrying in 1855 Thomas Chalmers Calvert (1826-1898), a Presbyterian minister's son born in Kentucky. His North Carolina parents moved to Bowling Green when he was a boy, his father preaching at a Presbyterian Church. When Margaret died in 1920 she was the oldest member of the town's First Presbyterian Church.

Eliza Caroline Calvert Obenchain (1856-1935)
Famous as Eliza Calvert Hall

Margaret had five children born between 1856 and 1870. The oldest of her four girls was Eliza Caroline Calvert, known as Lida. She wrote dialect stories for popular magazines using a variation of grandmother Eliza Hall Calvert's name as a pen name. 

Thomas Chalmers Calvert (1826-1898)

Thomas Calvert prospered as a bank manager; Margaret's quilt certainly speaks of leisure and access to luxury fabrics. When was it made?  Paper-pieced quilts of these kinds of dress scraps tend to be from the 1850s to the 1890s. When Margaret married in 1855 she may have been working on it.


Lynn E. Niedermeyer in her biography of Margaret's daughter quotes a letter from Margaret's sister Jane to her new brother-in-law Thomas Calvert. Apparently Margaret did not want any help from her sisters.
"I hope she will complete her quilt....if she had our assistance the task would be lighter for her. Mary says she is so particular, perhaps we could not do it good enough we would take just as fine stitches as we could."
The quilt may have taken years, the years when Margaret was having children and living the life of a wife of a well-to-do business man. She had household help. 


The 1860 slave schedule in the census lists two slaves for the family, one of whom may have been this woman whose photograph is in the Younglove/Calvert Family papers. After emancipation a woman the children called Aunt Bella continued to help raised Margaret's children while Thomas made a post-war fortune in speculation and built a new Italianate mansion.

Margaret and daughter Josephine in the 1890s perhaps

The Museum gives 1879 as an ending date for the quilt. Margaret's life changed so much in 1870, however, that she may have put it aside.


 Her husband was accused, quite rightly, of embezzlement from the bank. One night in November, 1870, a few days after Margaret had given birth to son Edward, he snuck out of the house and disappeared, leaving her with five children, debt and a scandal. She and her older daughters with help from Bella followed the usual pattern of "decayed gentlewomen," taking in laundry and sewing work to survive, moving in with relatives. No time for patiently piecing small diamonds together.


However, Margaret may have showed this particular quilt in 1860 at the Kentucky State Fair in the "Silk Patchwork Quilt" category, where there were five entries and she received a second place certificate. Was her quilt finished by 1860 or did she make several exceptional show quilts over her long life?




There's a lot more to Margaret Younglove Calvert's story. Read Lynn Niedermeyer's book Eliza Calvert Hall: Kentucky Author & Suffragist at this preview:

Niedermeyer has also summarized Lida's and her mother's story in Standing Up for Her Sex in Kentucky Humanities.


Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Centennial Suffrage Fabric 2020 Give-Away


August 26, 2020 is the 100th Anniversary of the official certification of the ratification of the 19th amendment so I had a give-away this week.

Poster by Bertha Margaret Boye

A national celebration of the Centennial would be ideal but those in charge do not seem interested in celebrating women's right to vote. States and local organizations had many events scheduled before the pandemic but parades and other public events are on cautionary hold.


You might want to celebrate the anniversary yourself with a quilt or a scrap of fabric in a quilt you are working on this year.


Here's a celebratory grid that you could print out on pre-treated fabric cut 8-1/2 x 11 inches. 

One Way to Print:
Create a word file or a new empty JPG file that is 8-1/2" x 11".
Click on the image above.
Right click on it and save it to your file.
Print that file out 8-1/2" x 11" on pre-treated fabric.


The grid with dots is drawn from a shirting print done in 1876 for
the Centennial anniversary of the Declaration of Independence.


The document print



I also designed three other Suffrage Centennial Prints you can buy at Spoonflower. They'll print them to order.

Document print for the eagle fabric

 GIVE-AWAY WINNERS


I picked two winners based on their good ideas for an August 26th celebration.

Maxine said:
I will contact every eligible (of age) female member of my family to make sure they are registered to vote in the November election. I will make sure they vote either by mail or in person.

Michele has been writing about suffrage on her blog, Pennsylvania Piecemaker which celebrated the centennial for a full year of blog posts on a variety of suffrage topics. My partner Beth and I sponsored a Suffrage Centennial Quilt Challenge and the winners for that will be announced on August 18. 
She also made a suffrage garden in her front yards with "flowers in yellow, purple, and white. I put signs up and people have been coming by to see the garden, read the signs, and take photos."
http://pennsylvaniapiecemaker.blogspot.com/

See the links for all four fabrics on Spoonflower (I'm working on a fifth):

The shirting grid:
https://www.spoonflower.com/designs/9931436-centennial-women-s-vote-by-materialculture
I am still working on the scale on this---They'll probably print a larger grid.

A traditional eagle


https://www.spoonflower.com/designs/9931309-suffrage-centennial-by-materialculture


A more contemporary look --- or feedsack flashback




Here's a list of exhibits scheduled for this Centennial year.
https://www.2020centennial.org/exhibits-2

And some of my favorite comments:
Arlene
As part of my DAR Chapter, a few of us entered the fiber arts contest that was centered on the anniversary of women’s suffrage giving us the right to vote. Our quilt top wall hanging (3x4 12 inch blocks) won 3rd place in our district. For ongoing activities, I am sharing via facebook any information I find regarding the anniversary of women securing the right to vote. I am also advocating for all people to get out and vote when they have the opportunity. I’ve also sent my niece, who is now sewing on her own, information on quilting in general and fabric in the suffrage colors to make something to commemorate the 100th anniversary of our right to vote.

Bettina
August 26 would be the 80th birthday of my husband. There was no greater champion of women's rights. He taught for forty years at a women's college, one of the few strictly for women's education left in the US. He supported and nourished the growth of his students. Many of those students spoke or posted on Facebook of the contribution he made to their education. Celebrating the day would underwrite his commitment. If you're born on the 26th of August you are ordained to support women's rights.

Geri
I think I will get my granddaughters together and we will have a party and read your blog again and Mor information on this special day. I will take my sewing machine and we will make a simple quilt.

Nancy
I think I'll publish a blog post on my family history blog with the names and ages of the women in my family who were eligible to vote in 1920. A search of local newspapers of the time wouldn't go amiss, either. Too bad I can't find voting rosters for the places where they lived in 1920.

 Loretta
My mother-in-law, Carrie Frances, who was born in 1909 and who died when she was 105 years old, remembered and passed down, not just the family silver, but the 1920 election story she remembered from the year when her mother got the right to vote. We will be celebrating the day by setting the table with the good china and the family silver, the silver her mother won by betting against her husband on the outcome of the election in 1920, the very first year women could vote for President. Warren G. Harding won by a landslide, and Annie got her silver. We will also display a quilt Annie made. My mother-in-law went in person to vote every year for her entire life, right up until she was 105 years old.
  
Rebecca

That’s our first day of school so I guess I’m celebrating by teaching the next generation of women voters.

Friday, August 7, 2020

Birds & Spiders #4: The Fabric & Conclusions

The DAR Museum has two related pieces of chintz. 
This one, possibly made into a bolster cover, is
an arborescent with floral and pomegranates but no birds.

The other has the two birds on either side of the tree branch.
(The repeat is reversed in this one.)

Designs are different but elements are the same;
was one a pirated copy of the other design?  (Early 19th-century
English prints were only copyright for a couple of months.)

Tree of Life from the Bird & Spider chintz in the DAR Collection

18th-century palampore from India's Coromandel Coast 
in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum

The cliche about tree of life quilts is that they were inspired
by Indian imagery in palampores....


Scholar Viewing a Waterfall, Ma Yuan, about 1200
Metropolitan Museum of Art

And a Chinese view of landscape.

Tree of Life bedcover, Atlanta History Center

However, that world view must have been filtered through European sources, the imagery available to craftsmen in England who printed the fabric and applique artists in America who stitched the quilts.

Flight Into Egypt panel attributed to Sarah Warner Williams
About 1810-1830
Collection: Winterthur Museum

The bird chintz we have been discussing is an excellent example. English prints like this one from the productive London printer J. Hinton interpreted Asian design, influencing calico printers and quiltmakers.

The piece in the center of Carolyn Miller's quilt is an uncut print with the birds.

We also find quilts made from the related chintz without the birds. 

Arborescent print with a floral and to the side a brown pomegranate.
This one includes peonies the gnarly tree and pomegranates.
 No birds, no spider.

Wholecloth quilt in the collection of the International
Quilt Museum. 102 x 105 inches 
Three widths of the chintz means that the repeats are about a yard wide.

The Winterthur Museum has a length of yardage.
Notice how some of the brown pomegranates are awkwardly off to the right side
kind of floating.....

while others are incorporated into the overall design.

Detail from a top in the collection of the
Los Angeles Museum of Art

The tree of life with familiar florals and pomegranates is rather abruptly connected to
a base with different birds.



Sixteenth-century watercolor of a pomegranate
by Jacques Le Moyne De Morgues.
Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum

Catherine Parker Custis's quilt at the DAR Museum: pomegranates
cut from the bird & spider chintz.

Pomegranates that look to be from a different chintz in a medallion
in Jane Lury's collection

And in the other quilt in Jane's collection

We are all guessing there were several variations on the chintzes with more
than one bird print (is one reversed?), a couple of pomegranate designs, etc.


When Mount Vernon curators reworked their chintz bedroom a few years ago they commissioned Windham fabrics to interpret the piece in the collection of the Winterthur, brightening the reproduction in "vividness of the color and the saturation," according to Associate Curator Amanda Isaac.

The scale appears larger than the original.


Johanna Christina Miller, Savannah
Georgia Quilts

What have we learned from examining this ubiquitous chintz and the many surviving quilts made from it?

1) The bird & pomegranate arborescent chintzes printed in England were widely available up and down the east coast of the U.S. in the early 19th century --- perhaps 1820-1840. We see quilts with connections.

2) Quiltmakers from Massachusetts down to Savannah, Georgia (and perhaps into the Bahamas) made quilts as shown in the quilts with family histories.

3) Nearly every one of the quilts found using the Bird & Spider chintz arranged the designs into a tree of life format (no baskets, no wreaths).

A few trees

Questions?
1) How was this design standard communicated to such a geographically disparate group of quiltmakers?

2) Or were the quilts (basted, finished tops or finished quilts) from a single professional workshop which had a good supply of Bird & Spider fabric and many seamstresses with the skills to snip out the design elements and stitch them to a backing.

The chintz in the center of collector Carolyn Miller's medallion

And that is the end of the posts on Birds with a Spider for Lunch.