QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Saturday, December 6, 2025

Early American Quilts: Knickerbocker Style for St. Nicholas's Day

Pennsylvania State Museum
American patchwork quilt thought to be about 1800, attributed to a 
woman in the Robinson/Wells/Drum family.


Examples of surviving 18th-century American quilts give us answers about the earliest American patchwork but they also generate more questions. See a post on a style of patchwork framed medallion dating from about 1780 to 1810 like the quilt above:

Yet, other styles seem to have been stitched. One fashion shows great influence from the Netherlands---Dutch quilts. Today is St. Nicholas's day...Santa Claus to Americans. We can celebrate that Dutch custom by looking at some very old patchwork.. 

SinterKlaas in Holland
Santa Claus is a Knickerbocker gift

A little Dutch-American history: In 1609 Dutch capitalists from the Dutch East India Company sent English explorer Henry Hudson to find a shorter water route to India where they were buying goods to sell to the rest of the world. Instead, Hudson found the river that bears his name far from what he was looking for--- India's Coromandel Coast . Five years later Netherlandish entrepreneurs capitalized on his error and founded the Dutch West India Company to establish a colony with a port at the Hudson River's mouth on the Atlantic. Their "New Netherlands" extended from Pennsylvania and New York south to what is now Delaware.

National Park Service map of New Netherland altered to
highlight the Hudson River and add the fictional
 Diedrich Knickerbocker who came to personify Dutch New York.

New York (Knickerbocker himself) pulls the strings
in a 1901 illustration by Louis Dalrymple.

Dutch settlers did not arrive until 1624, establishing Fort Orange (later Albany) and two smaller settlements on an island in the Delaware River and another in what is now Governors Island near Manhattan.

                     The capital on "Manhatans" was called New Amsterdam

Thirty years later their trade rival England began fighting for control of the area with skirmishes that lasted a decade until the English took control of a renamed New York.

20th-century version of Dutch Governor Peter Stuyvesant's 1664 surrender

And that's about all we have learned about Knickerbocker history, a lack
Washington Irving regretted in 1809 when he invented Diedrich Knickerbocker.
Collection Los Angeles County Museum of Art
71" x 62"

Did colonists in New Netherlands and their descendants make quilts? If so, what did they look like?
Perhaps like this top dated with initials.

"1807 M.B."
Although it has the same high-contrast color scheme as the patchwork medallion at the head of this post --- an emphasis on dark brown and white typical in the cotton prints of the 1780-1820 period---this top contains a wider variety of prints compared to the medallion quilts shown in my November post. The major difference is in the overall design, which we could call a medallion format with a central focus floating in a field of patchwork triangles. No concentric borders of plain or patchwork.

Unfortunately LACMA knows nothing about it. Who was MB and where was it made?

Perhaps in the Netherlands...

...where this piece is in the collection of the Dutch Open Air Museum in Arnham
(Nederlands OpenLucht Museum)

Stylistically similar top from the Zeeuws Museum in Middelburg NL 

Another from the Groninger Museum in Groningen NL

Surprising similarities: Tops with a star center floating in a field of triangles in high contrast.
What do those visual similarities tell us?
Could the LACMA quilt top have been made in America?
There are American-attributed bedcovers in the Dutch style format.
Winterthur Museum Collection 
Pieced quilt with commemorative handkerchief in center, 
American, 1790-1810. Cotton. 94 x 74"
The triangles are rather large.

National Museum of American History Collection

No history with this quilt but fabrics indicate a date of "1790-1800" with the 
border's plate-printed toile "similar to English plate prints of 1770-1795."


Link to the files: https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object/nmah_556465

D.A.R. Museum Collection
Gift of New Yorker Susan Greene
Adaptation: Stars rather than being a central focus are in the corners.

High contrast brown and white prints with a later stripe border.

Copied this one from the files of the Ohio Historical Society
years ago, attributed to Sally Howard Bailey but I cannot find
the file today. Rather than patchwork, Sally incorporated recycled embroidery
into her center and her triangles. 

The circular or star center in a field of patchwork is seen in both English, Dutch and American quilts. 
Collection of the National Museum of American History
Unknown maker, late 18th -19th century
 Gift of Mrs. Robert Stephens 

Stella Rubin's Inventory
Doll quilt signed 
"Ann Crisford
Aged 8 Years
1826"


The patchwork field is seen in the earliest of quilts. The most common names today for half-square triangle variations are Broken Dishes and Yankee Puzzle (don't tell Diedrich Knickerbocker) because these fanciful names were published in the first half of the 20th century by Ruby McKim and Ruth Finley---a New Yorker. Those books have had staying power in their rather dubious histories.

Quilts pictured above are cotton (plus linen) quilts. In North America we also have surviving quilts of wool and silk or all four natural fibers .

McCord Museum, McGill University, Montreal. 81 ½ x 77 ½"
Silk quilt inscribed IN 1726

This early silk bedcover is thought to have been made in England. As it is not quilted, just backed, paper templates can be seen, cut from a handwriting copybook, letters, texts and malt makers' legal regulations ---we presume in English and Latin. Curator Jacqueline Beaudoin-Ross noted that the border brocade is typical of English or Dutch silks at the time the quilt is dated, the rival countries that were the powerhouse international textile traders at the time.

Wadsworth Atheneum Collection
Circular center in a field of patchwork triangles inscribed 
"Anna Tuels her bed quilt given to her by her mother in the year Au 23. I785"
Wool, silk, and printed cottons, wool backing and batting.

With better access to genealogical records we now know more about the maker and the Tuels family. Lilian H. Zirpolo found records of the probable quiltmaker---Anna's mother Experience Taylor Tuels (her dates according to FamilySearch: 1722-1789) who lived in Marshfield, Massachusetts. Both she and her husband Barnard Tuels were born in Massachusetts. (Tuels in its variations is a Welsh name.) Anna (1759-1848) was one of seven children, in her twenties when the quilt was made. Experience died a few years later in her sixties.

Winterthur Museum 
Quilt attributed to Martha Agry Vaughn [Vaughan] (1786-1856),
ca. 1805. Silk with cotton and linen, backing wool

Caption from Robert Shaw's American Quilts

Laurie LaBarr in Maine Quilts dates it to 1795-1815 and notes it's pieced over newspaper templates, probably English-language papers. Martha's father was Thomas Agry II (1756-1821.) Mother Hannah Nye Agry died at 29 in 1794 when Martha was about 8. The family lived in Maine when it was Massachusetts---in Hallowell near Agry's Point in the Kennebec Valley where they built ships and smaller boats. No records found yet indicate that either of the two men named Thomas Agry was a ship's captain.

Family Search records of Martha Agry Vaughan

Silk quilt attributed to Catherine Penniman Bradford (1777 or 1778- 1827) of Massachusetts about 1825, pictured in the Wisconsin project's book Wisconsin Quilts: History In The Stitches by Ellen Kort. 1825 is a cut-off date for "Early" quilts but this silk spectacular attributed to a century after the McCord's 1726 piece in pieced and embroidered in similar style. 
Catherine's genealogy from FamilySearch

More Questions!!!
Two Dutch-style quilts found in the U.S., both now at the International Quilt Museum

One possible idea: If we are looking at historic styles for a 250th anniversary quilt we should 
 have a pattern for a Dutch-inspired Knickerbocker Quilt. But that's a lot of triangles.

---Further Reading

Lilian H. Zirpolo, "The Anna Tuels Quilt in the Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartford, CT: Stylistic, Technical, and Historical Considerations"

An Moonan, A History of Dutch Quilts


Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Tariff Updates After Three Months

 

"Yikes!" 

Tariffs on imported items have been in place for over three months. Peter Eavis of the New York Times reported on effects on December 1st, e.g., a woman who bought a coat from the Netherlands for $456 plus shipping (a splurge) had to pay another $250 in customs duties when it arrived.

For decades, no U.S. duties were imposed on items worth $800 or less. The current administration closed that loophole that allowed goods to enter the United States tariff-free. The $800 cut-off, known as the de minimis exemption, meant that Americans could buy fabric, patterns, books, etc. from the rest of the world and pay shipping but no tariffs. International shipping has been hit hard by the new economic policy.
As of August, 2025

The tariff situation affects quilters in many ways. The fine quality quilting cottons sold by U.S. companies are printed primarily in South Korea and Japan where tariffs now affect the importers' price, increasing wholesale prices to shops and retail prices to customers.

Over on the top right here I have been keeping track of quilt fabric 
retail prices every Friday in the hopes of seeing trends.

End of November, online price for current Christmas prints

September through November, 2025

Prices increased but then dropped to about $13+ a yard at retail shops online 
(fabric fairly new and NOT on sale.)

"Yikes!"

My method may be flawed as I randomly pick a new fabric each week to price but it looks like the
retailers or the wholesalers are eating the costs of those tariffs to benefit consumers. Of course different companies use different quality greige (gray) goods---the base fabric---and some probably pay their designers less so there are other factors in the pricing differences but....

"Yikes"

UPDATE ON THE UPDATES: Friday December 5---hard to find a fabric online that is NOT on sale. Found a dot at $12.40 a yard (see upper right for a box with picture.)

The graph shows a downward trend in the first week in December---
and it's not because the tariffs are lower.


Read more about tariffs and why we don't produce high quality quilting cotton in the U.S. in these posts:

Thursday, November 27, 2025

Mysterious Visuals in Indigo Whole Cloth Quilts

                                                                      

Both the Winterthur & the International Quilt Museums own quilted whole cloth* bedcovers with large center panels of the same printed indigo resist design of a pineapple/bromeliad/artichoke type of plant. Each was bordered probably at a later time; the Winterthur's with a popular cactus print from the 1830s in yellow; IQM's with a "Flying Geese" pieced border of smaller indigo prints.


Inner borders on both are a small vine and a stripe.


The high-end furnishing fabric company Brunschwhig & Fils working with the Winterthur Museum reproduced the print in the 1990's as "Bromelia Resist" and included the vining edge stripe so we can guess what the striped vine might have looked like.

Brunschwhig & Fils repro---3 colorways


The DAR Museum has an indigo resist, whole cloth bedcover in a pheasant print with the same edge design. (All these whole cloth bedcovers seem to be "18th century.")

The Met owns another bird print with the same edge.
Historic Deerfield has a small fragment in the
 pheasant fabric with a barely visible vining edge. Is it the same edge?

A peacock blue resist curtain from New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art

The New Jersey project recorded this leafy print with apparently three borders
 although the white and yellow florals seem to have been
laid under the blue print rather than being pieced in. Three finished
quilts combined?


Decades ago author Florence Pettit showed a similar edge on a different print
in a textile from a New York museum.

Bill Volckening's Collection
And here's what appears to be the same edge on another print in a whole cloth bedcover that Bill
describes as "Applied binding, blue resist whole cloth quilt, c. 1760-1800."

Nine bedcovers of 7 different  blue resist prints with the same vining edge.

Visual coincidences mean something, but I do not know what ----YET.
-------------------
* "Whole cloth" bedcovers or quilts refers to the use of fabric in a single design as the theme. These fabrics are usually pieced together ---sometimes in two long narrow strips, sometimes in smaller pieces.

The Rhode Island project recorded this quilt in the
same print as the one in the Volckening collection. 
Added lines show where three lengths of cloth are visible in the photo.
Does it have an edge? Can't see from the photo.