QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Showing posts with label dogtooth applique. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dogtooth applique. Show all posts

Friday, August 12, 2011

Dogtooth Stars How-To

Nineteeth-century quilters often free-cut stars for applique. The maker of this New Jersey album pictured in an online auction appliqued stars over the seam intersections. 

The quilt looks to be about 1840-1860.

Spiky Stars by Deb Rowden, 2009

Deb Rowden interpreted an antique quilt for the American Quilt Study Group's Red and Green study a few years ago, appliqueing 16 free-cut stars just as the maker of her inspiration quilt had done. This old-fashioned technique allows you to create an impulsive look that is quite refreshing in our era of templates. See her inspiration at Stella Rubin's online shop.



These stars all begin with a circle. Determine what size you want your finished star to be and cut a circle 3/8" larger or so. This is a great use for the Go!Baby Cutter so you might want to cut a bunch of 5" circles. In the past I used a jar lid for a template.

We'll cut an 8-pointed star first. Fold the circle in half and then half again, etc. till you have it folded into a pie-shaped piece that shows 1/8th of the circle. Just like cutting paper snowflakes.

Press it so the creases are really in there.
Before you unfold it take a scissors and snip it in the creases.

Use a sharp scissors and snip through all the layers right in the creases.
The longer your slash the spikier the points on your finished stars.

Open up your circle.
Baste it or glue it to the backround.


Create the star points by folding under those edges. Do not trim them. Fold them under and applique them down.

You can be as precise or spontaneous as you like.

You can also make a six pointed star.



I reverse appliqued a hole in the center. You can layer circles on top of the star or do reverse applique.
Notice the shadow of the folded-under points above. That's usually not a problem. My imitation chrome orange fabric is pretty thin.

The only difference in creating a six pointed star is in your initial folding of the circle. Fold it into sixths instead of eighths.


And then there is the five-pointed Betsy Ross star.
American children are taught to cut five-pointed stars with the legendary story of Betsy Ross cutting one for George Washington and the first American flag. Historical bunk, but a fun way to learn to cut a five-pointed star. Most of us forget immediately.

For a five-pointed star:


Again: Begin by folding the circle in half.

Then fold a piece over that is twice as wide as the section that is behind.
The proportions here are 1:2. The pinkish shape is twice as wide as the red shape visible here.

Fold the smaller flap backwards.
Press

This works better if you open it up before you slash it.
You'll see you have an extra line in the creases.

Ignore the extra crease.
Slash down the correct 5 creases.




The deeper the slash the sharper the points.
Fold under the points and hand applique.



In this block dated 1863 the maker laid a red five-pointed star atop a blue five-pointed star to get a 10-pointed star. There are many possibilities.....

See this great use of the free-cut star in another quilt from Stella Rubin by way of the Selvage Blog:




Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Dogtooth Stars

 
We love regularity (some of us.)

But some of us love spontaneity.
A favorite find for me is a wacky star in a 19th-century quilt.

No templates involved here.

An eagle with a load of odd-shaped arrows and stars (late 19th c.?)

Reproduction eagle and star by me
These appliqued stars seem to be related to the dogtooth border technique where seamstresses slashed a strip and tucked under the points as they appliqued.


Appliqued dogtooth border


The stars were especially popular with eagles.
The stars could have 8 points, 6, 5 or 4.

Quilt dated 1898

4 points.

In the next post in a few days I'll show you how they did these free-cut stars.
Below are the allover views of some of these quilts.



See more about the dogtooth border at this post
http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2010/12/dogtooth-borders.html

And more about the eagle design here last year.
http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2010/07/eagles-and-eccentricities.html


Quilt dated 1848 with a scallop border and a many free-cut five-pointed stars.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Dogtooth Borders

Quilt by Anne Dagge, date-inscribed 1818
Collection of the Smithsonian Institution

I've been looking at a lot of quilts with the dates inscribed on them, working on my digital newsletter for 2011. One of the things that impresses me most is how popular the appliqued dogtooth border was before 1860, and particularly before 1830.

Dogtooth border on a tattered quilt from about 1850

When you see pictures of these triangular borders you might think they are pieced, but several years ago quiltmakers Elly Sienkiewicz and Judy Severson, researching quilts by reproducing antiques, realized borders of spiky triangles that look pieced in photographs were actually appliqued. Quilters probably slashed strips in regular fashion and turned the edges under to form triangles.


The source for the name Dogtooth seems obvious; canine teeth are sharp. The word is used to describe several pointed objects such as the Dogtooth Violet in botany and dogtooth spar in mineralogy. In her quilt research, Sandi Fox noted that dogtooth is also a name for an ornament in English gothic architecture, a type of quatrefoil detail found in medieval buildings.

1797
A Vandyke scallop or Portuguese hem on the right

Fox suggests the word Vandyke scallop might be a better name for the quilt technique. She found fashion illustrations in the 1790s featuring geometric borders such as a dress described as having a "chintz border in Vandyke scallops." A search of fashion illustrations from 1790-1820 will show many such clothing details.

Queen Henrietta Maria by Van Dyck,
 wearing a few scallops in the 17th century

Louis Harmuth's 1915 Dictionary of Textiles defines a "Van Dyke" as a "pointed scallop in laces and embroideries." The name comes from the paintings of Anthony Van Dyck, an artist born in Belgium in 1599. Van Dyck achieved fame as court painter to the English king when fashion dictated small pointed beards and elaborate clothing with v-shaped scallops on collars and cuffs. His name still describes a goatee beard, but the association with dress and embroidery has been forgotten.

Vandyke scallops in 1813

Fox also defined the edge as a Portuguese hem. A 1917 book Dressmaking: A Manual for Schools and Colleges described "Portuguese laid work" as a technique "chiefly used as a border decoration."

Cut-out chintz quilt with dogtooth border by Mrs. James Lusby,
 date inscribed 1837-1838
Collection of the Smithsonian Institution


A Star of Bethlehem with a dogtooth border, a photo sent by Jane Hall


One sometimes sees these double dogtooth borders in different colors

I tried to find a tutorial on the internet about how to stitch a dogtooth border (or a Vandyke scallop) but couldn't find any. Instructions are in two of my books and in Judy Severson's Flowers in Applique.
Below is a small illustration from my Quilts From the Civil War.

Begin with two strips of fabric, for example 
1 strip 4 x 20" inches of light
1 strip 2-1/2" a 20 inches of dark
Baste them together with a stay stitch on the bottom.
Mark every 2" on the top of the dark strip
Slash 1-1/2" down at those marks
Turn the edges under and applique them into a point. 

Erma's Wedding Quilt, by Judy Severson and friends
Judy does a very orderly dogtooth border

Nancy Hornback, Reunion Eagle
And so do Nancy and Karla
  
Liberty's Eagle by Karla Menaugh


Karla Menaugh, Sunflowers

Karla has included instructions for her plaid dogtooth border in my book Borderland in Butternut and Blue, available from Kansas City Star books. Click here to read more about the book:

 I love to find the dogtooth appliqued edge used in other ways
A quilt from about 1850 with a dogtooth top to the basket

And a dogtooth edge on a scallop from another mid-19th-century quilt


Here's a detail of a terrific album quilt
in the collection of the Winterthur Museum.

See more 19th-century quilts with dogtooth borders by clicking on the links:
Two from the International Quilt Study Center and Museum
Number 2008.040.0195
Number 1997.007.0688
http://cdn.firespring.com/images/a/2/4/a/6/a65515c7-2270-4a60-a8f1-6eb169f2d267.jpg

Another from the Winterthur
http://content.winterthur.org/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/quilts&CISOPTR=455&CISOBOX=1&REC=3

Chirp, Barbara Brackman, 2010
Inspired by Anne Dagge's 1818 quilt at the top I put a wacky dogtooth border on my little Broderie Perse quilt of paisley birds.