QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Tuesday, December 15, 2020

Flora Delanica #3 Christmas Rose


Flora Delanica #3
Hellebore (Helleborus Niger) Christmas Rose by Becky Brown

A wintry bloom is probably a good choice to represent Mary's first husband,
and there is something about the name Hellebore....

Mary Granville, despite being English gentry, was born into a life of harsh economic realities. Girls and women were generally unable to inherit family fortunes or even fragments of family fortunes. They had one option---marriage to a man of substance, as Jane Austen would explain to us in the next century. 

Mary's Uncle George Lord Lansdowne supported his younger brother's family and thus had authority to direct their futures. For Mary he favored the first marital prospect who came along, arranging a marriage to neighbor Alexander Pendarves (1662-1725), a Tory Member of Parliament 48 years older. Her uncle may have been more interested in himself than in Mary, hoping Pendarves could further his own precarious career (He'd just served two years in London's tower for treason.)

But he also thought it was a good bet for 17-year-old Mary.  A few years of union with an overweight, alcoholic bridegroom would pay off when he died and left his estate in Cornwall to his young wife.

Richard Clews portraying Grumio for the 
Royal Shakespeare Company

The plan had many flaws; Mary was disgusted with the homely, ill-groomed man whom she called Gromio (possibly a reference to Grumio, a ridiculous old servant in Shakespeare's Taming of the Shrew) but the marriage took place. Mary was "sacrificed," as she put it and went off to live in Roscrow Castle near Falmouth in Cornwall.

Falmouth over a century after Mary lived there.

Her husband, according to Mary Pendarves in her autobiography, was "excessively fat, of a brown complexion, negligent in his dress, and took a vast quantity of snuff, which gave him a dirty look." He was also petulantly jealous and sulked if she talked to men her own age.

Mary had been bored in exile in Gloucestershire.
Cornwall must have been far duller for an 18-year-old.

Her unpleasant husband did not live long, dying in her bed one night, but he hadn't rewritten his will in the four years of marriage. (Uncle George, the poet, by that time had forgotten what the terms of inheritance were supposed to be.) Pendarves's estate and castle went to his nieces, leaving his wife without a home. At 26 the childless Mary was awarded a jointure (provision for a wife) of  £370 annually, enough to live on if she was careful. 
"I may say I am rich, but still it will cost me pains and management to keep myself clear, and that's an employment no way to my [taste.]"
Nancy Phillips's in wool

Helleborus niger by Mary Granville Pendarves Delany
British Museum

Basic shapes


Becky's are appliqued to 10" Finished squares.
Will go on point.

She has a way with fabric!

Flora Delanica #3
Hellebore - Christmas Rose by Barbara Brackman
Mine get wackier every month.

Ilyse Moore's Christmas Roses are pink.

Hellebores from Jinny Beyer's garden.
They are Ranunculaceae, not real roses.

Hellebore by Denniele Bohannon

A Little More Mary Delany


Poinciana Pulcherrima 
Barbados (Peacock Flower)
https://nickyskye.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-delany-collage-artist-of-flowers_21.html

Further Reading & Viewing



Ruth Hayden's book Mrs. Delany: Her Life & Her Flowers has been published in several editions.
Above is the one I have from the British Museum. Below from the Morgan Library.



Catalog from an exhibit at the Morgan Library. Same book?
Below, more recent edition?


Used copies go anywhere from $25 to $275.

Denniele is adding a little bit of pink shading
 with permanent colored pencils.


I finally got around to making a pattern packet you can buy at my Etsy store.

All the patterns in 28 pages, either a PDF to print yourself for $12:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/925485289/flora-delanica-bom-12-applique-floral

Or I will mail you U.S. residents black & white sheets for $17:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/911573944/flora-delanica-bom-12-applique-floral?

Sunday, December 13, 2020

Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns: Winner


Winslow Homer, altered to shameless advertising.

The winner of the new edition is Regina in Germany. I picked a random time and a random name with an email address and it was her.

Thanks for all the compliments on my Photoshopping, If I spent that much time making quilts my points would be sharper.

Tuesday, December 8, 2020

Quilt Exhibit Johnson County Museum

 

Flying Geese quilt made by Louisa Ellin Milligan Rennick
in Lexington, Kentucky, about 1860



The Johnson County Museum in the Kansas City area has an exhibit
of eleven quilts up until January 2021. Each tells a story about families
who lived there in the past.

Today Johnson County is an affluent Kansas City, Missouri suburb (in Kansas)  and it's hard to see its rural past but the quilts and their stories remind us of the farms and small towns under the
housing developments.

Quilt made for Mary Barkley Harkey in 1894
by her Sunday School class


The Harkeys came to Johnson County after the Civil War


The oldest quilt in the exhibit is probably this North
Carolina Lily by Julia Ann Smith Douglas, born in Virginia in
1829. She married in 1856 and the quilt was probably made
before that. 

Julia Ann Smith Douglas (1829-1904)

The Douglases brought the quilt to Iowa where a son was born
and then to Kansas where they prospered as farmers.



Several of the later quilts were made in Johnson County 

Goose in the Pond by Mildred Bigelow of Gardner, 1900-1920




A favorite is Estella Smith Graves's political cartoon quilt from
the 1932 Presidential election. See a post about it here

Estella Bell Graves-Smith (1871-1963), Olathe, Kansas
As you can see the installation and labels are elaborate,
very impressive.

This friendship quilt from the Rudy/Macklin families
has an intriguing story and a date embroidered on it.

Jennie H. Mitchell
1843

Now in 1843 the land was home to the Shawnee and a few smaller tribes. Missionaries were permitted to live there and these Anglo-Americans might have made quilts, but I'm a skeptic.

The quilt is worn and the fabric is hard to see but it looks
like Turkey red, wearing in the way Turkey red often does.
How old are the Turkey reds (1840-1930?)

The patchwork pattern could be 1843; in fact it's one of the
popular early friendship quilts blocks. Do notice that the corners
on the Duck's Foot or Bear's Paw are appliqued over a white square,
not pieced in.

But all in all, I am very doubtful the quilt or even most of the
blocks were made in 1843.


The best clue might be the signature style, embroidered Turkey red (or a faded
imitation) stitched in chain stitch.

Very much like the inscription on the 1894 Sunday School quilt.
In 1843 the signers would be more likley to have used one of two popular signature styles

Cross Stitch

or ink

I'd guess the  Rudys, the Macklins and the Mitchells made this quilt
sometime after 1870, signed it and for some reason Jennie Mitchell
put the date 1843 on it---perhaps her birthdate.

It was probably made in Johnson County as many people by those
names lived near Spring Hill.

The show is up until January 23, 2021.
Here's a post at KCUR about it:
https://www.kcur.org/arts-life/2020-11-23/johnson-county-museums-quilt-exhibition-stitches-together-womens-stories-past-and-present

The museum's Facebook page:

Quiltmaker Nedra Bonds is going to do an online talk in January. 
Links


Friday, December 4, 2020

Alice Catlett Vance: More Family Quilts

 

Quilt associated with Mary Alice Catlett Vance (1863-1948)
with her maiden initials MAC Age 16
& date August 20 79, the year she married.
Made in Anderson, South Carolina.
Photo from the North Carolina project & the Quilt Index.

Yesterday we looked at this quilt.

The blocks are 23-1/2" square and all pieced work, according to the worksheet. The repeat does not seem to be a square block but rather a curved pink shape pieced into the white lobes or petals. The background is probably a double pink print and the other fabrics are solids.

One looks at a quilt with this level of needlework skill and wonders what other quilts the maker might have made. Only one of Alice Vance's quilts was recorded in the North Carolina project. She lived much of her life in Asheville, moving there after she married at 16. Alice was in the fabric business running a drygoods store to support herself and her three children. See yesterday's post for more about her:  

Can we believe that this quilt was finished, bound and labeled by a 16-year-old as her descendants heard the story?

Alternative idea: Her mother made it for her.

Quilt attributed to  Lucy Tucker Catlett (1834-1897)
Anderson, South Carolina
Collection of the South Carolina State Museum

Alice's mother was Lucy Tucker Catlett
Lucy's grave: 

This unusual quilt is inscribed:
"MACV from your mother"
Mary Alice Catlett Vance.
Estimated date 1890-1900
82" wide by 72"

Alice's mother was born and died in Anderson, South Carolina. When Alice married in 1879 Lucy was 45, mother of three daughters and a son ages 20 to 6. Two young boys had died in the mid-1860s. Lucy's 51-year-old husband John Pinkney Catlett came to Anderson from Tennessee when he married Lucy in 1856. He ran a livery shop, supplying town and country with horses, mules, harness, wagons and carriages.  Her mother, another Lucy Tucker died in Anderson when she was two; she and her siblings were raised by stepmother Sallie.

Anderson in 1889
South Carolina Digital Collection Postcard

We might assume Lucy was middle-class, supported by her husband, a quiltmaker as a hobby rather than an occupation.

Museum number is SC 79.34.3

The South Carolina Quilt History project documented
this quilt. Worksheets tell us the needle work is excellent.

It was probably donated to the South Carolina State Museum by a descendant. A note associated with it says, "Quilt was in great grandmother's wedding chest." Accession numbers indicate the donation was in 1979.

82" x 70"
Collection of the South Carolina State Museum
Again the needlework is said to be excellent.

The quilt looks never used but one wonders if some of the background fabrics have faded, particularly the long strip along the baskets. Some of the diamonds may have faded to brown.

That donation probably included several quilts. The quilt above in the pattern commonly called North Carolina Lily is initialed M.A.C. and was said to have been made by Lucy's North Carolina daughter Mary Alice Catlett (Vance) about 1880, perhaps another quilt prepared for her 1879 wedding.

One more Catlett quilt documented by the South Carolina project:

Crazy quilt attributed to Mary Alice Catlett
Collection of the South Carolina State Museum
Date inscribed is 1895 in the block initialed M.A.C.
(In 1895 Mary Alice Catlett was Mrs. Alice Vance?)


It might better be described as an embroidered string quilt but that could
be nitpicking. Center blocks show family affiliations with the Masons
and the Christian Church.

The embroidered quilt does not display the same needlework
skills as the pieced quilts.

Initials inscribed on the blocks:
"MAC", "LNC", "LTC", "JCV", "LV", "JGC"

Initials seem to be of people in Lucy Catlett's immediate family, particularly younger daughters Alice & Nettie.

MAC: Daughter Mary Alice Catlett (Vance) living in Asheville, North Carolina after 1879
LNC: Daughter Lucy Nettie Catlett, known as Nettie, who also lived in North Carolina
LTC: Mother Lucy Tucker Catlett of Anderson, South Carolina
JCV: Grandson John Catlett Vance of Asheville
LV: Granddaughter Lucy Vance of Asheville
JGV: Probably Lucy's husband John Catlett. The G is part of the Masonic image.

It's interesting that Alice's maiden initials MAC are on here. By that time she was separated from Mr. Vance.....


We see four quilts associated with the Catlett family at the Quilt Index but here is another in a familiar pattern in the South Carolina State Museum, shown in a 2000 exhibit. Again Lucy Tucker Catlett is assumed to have made it for Alice.

Another was pictured in Carter Houck's book American Quilts & How to Make Them.



Apparently the quilt has the initials M.A.C.V. on it with a date 1851.

As Mary Alice Catlett wasn't born till 1863 and didn't become a Vance till 1879 the date must be wrong or interpreted incorrectly. The quilt with it's strong sashing and fan quilting certainly doesn't look that old, perhaps 1890 or later.


This one was also passed down by Lucy Vance Twiford. Her grandmother Lucy Tucker, who seemed to enjoy piecing circular patterns, may have made it before her death in 1898.

A scenario: In 1979 one of Lucy Tucker Catlett's great-granddaughters (Sylvia Twiford Carr Fogg?), donated a trunk full of quilts to the South Carolina State Museum. The quilts were made by Lucy and given to Alice Catlett Vance whose daughter Lucy Vance Twiford kept them together and told her only daughter they were made for Alice's "wedding chest." 




I count five in the trunk and this one dated 1879, which went to another descendant to be recorded in the North Carolina project as made by Alice.

Alice had three children and a big house in Asheville full of beds and yet these give quilts appear almost unused. We are fortunate to have the surviving evidence of her mother's quiltmaking skills.


There may once have been many more. Lucy Tucker Catlett had three daughters. Eldest Victoria Catlett Barton (1858-1895) married James E Barton in the 1870s. Did she receive as many quilts as sister Alice? Victoria died in Anderson at 38 leaving ten children the same year the crazy quilt was dated. 


The 1880 census taken after Victoria and Alice married records just two children at home. John Pinckney (known as Pink) and Nettie the youngest. Lucy Nettie (1873-1964) never married but taught school and lived in Asheville near her sister Alice. Pink married twice.

A visit to Alice in the summer of 1890.

What other quilts have survived?