QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Thursday, May 13, 2010

Miyuki Sakai

An apple tartlet.
Nice, I wish someone would cook me some.
But what's really interesting is the plate.
It's machine embroidered onto the table cloth.
The illustrator is Miyuki Sakai for Martha Stewart Living
June, 2010, page 140.


Look at her stuff:
Here's an online recipe for the tart.
http://www.marthastewart.com/recipe/roasted-apple-tartlets

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

More Library of Congress Pictures

Wichita woman and baby with a patchwork quilt
Library of Congress

I mentioned the Library of Congress photograph collection a few weeks ago. I browse through it often for lunch-time entertainment.
Here's the link:
http://www.loc.gov/pictures/
I do searches for infant or baby, mainly to find some expressions I can use to emphasize a point---see crying princess on the left.
One of the serindipitous findings: lots of pictures of Native American babies in cradle boards and a few in quilts.



Asparoke mother and child
Library of Congress



Salish (Flathead) woman and baby in cradleboard
Library of Congress

I don't know a thing about cradle boards or beadwork or quillwork but don't these look like applique patterns? Same sylized flowers and leaves, similar symmetries. Probably all from the same source---European embroidery designs.

Nez Perce baby in cradle board
Library of Congress




Many of the pictures are late 19th-century but this one is from an 1861 book.

Find pictures of a variety of cradleboard styles at the National Museum of the American Indian by doing a search for cradleboard here:
Salish (Flathead) cradleboard about 1880
National Museum of the American Indian

Friday, May 7, 2010

Ragtime



Ragtime by Georgann Eglinski, 2009.
Quilted by Lori Kukuk

Here are some pictures of Georgann's strip quilt that
she showed at the Kaw Valley Quilters Guild show in April.

Georgann has made several quilts in this pattern, a good combination of simple patchwork and fancy fabric.

She took her palette from a reproduction print line called Ragtime
that Terry Thompson and I did for Moda in 2005.





Ragtime reproduced some crazy prints from the ragtime era, the 1910s.
People sometimes have trouble believing these "black novelty prints" could be 100 years old.
(Not all reproduction fabrics are brown---see my last post)


These bright on black prints were very fashionable about 1910.
Above is a stereograph photo with a quilt top that was the inspiration for the Ragtime collection.


Vestibule or Morning Star
Susan Stiff at Moda did a digitized version of the old quilt top in the new fabric.


Here's a version I made of the Morning Star I made with the charm pack and some extra yardage.

We did a  little package called a Tin Box Sampler that featured a charm pack of small squares and a disk with patterns on it.

Here's an applique design from the Tin Box.



Your quilt shop might even have a few yards of the Ragtime reproduction left, or I bet you can still find Ragtime prints at your favorite online source. Just do a digital search for Ragtime Moda.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Brown: In and Out of Fashion

Lost Ship by Barbara Brackman, 2002

Bonnie bus asked:

How did repro fabric get to be so brown?


Unknown pattern, about 1890

Antique quilts were brown. There was a real fad for brown calicoes from about 1860-1890.

From my book America's Printed Fabrics 1770-1890:

Historian Lewis Mumford called the last years of the century The Brown Decades. “The color of American civilization abruptly changed. By the time the [Civil] war was over, browns had spread everywhere: mediocre drabs, dingy chocolate browns, sooty browns that beiged into black.” His perspective, looking backward, reveals a twentieth-century disdain for the color, but in the gilded age, the era of brownstone buildings, walnut furniture and chestnut-haired beauties, brown truly reigned.


We see two main shades of brown in the 19th-century color palette: reddish brown and greenish brown.


Sawtooth variation, about 1875 from Cowan's Auctions

Many of the reddish-browns, the warmer brown  prints, were dyed with madder dye which produced dark browns, burnt oranges, peachy browns, tans, and cinnamon reds.
 
 
Madder-style prints were very popular from about 1860 to 1890, but we also see them in patchwork dating back to the 1780s.
 
The greenish-browns or khaki shades came from a synthetic dye that produced olive, bronze and cooler browns. This color palette appeared about 1875 and remained popular until about 1890.
 
 
Small star top using lavenders and bronzey browns about 1880
 
Pale blue and pink were often part of this bronze palette


 After 1890 brown was passé and black, blue and gray quilts were the thing.
 
Four-patch, about 1910
 
When Mumford was writing about brown in 1931, it was considered hopelessly old fashioned. Quilters loved clear pastels and red and grayed green. But color fades in and out of style.

Hexagon medallion about 1940 from Laura Fisher

Brown quilts were again the thing in 1970. At the turn of the 21st century brown was the hot look in primitive, folky quilts.

Pomegranates and Berries by Jan Patek, 2008
Jan Patek's use of brown and her interpretation of antique quilts
has been quite influential in creating the "prim-folk look".
See her kit here:

In the central United States where I live everyone was crazy for brown--- brownish reds, brownish greens, flat blues, tan, tan, tan. There was no true white. We always said brown was a Christmas color. The brown fashion was one reason reproduction prints became so popular. The late-19th-century aesthetic shaped our taste.


Decorating magazine picture from about 1980


Union Square by Pamela Mayfield, 2001
Buy a copy of Pam's Union Square pattern here:

Taste changes and now everyone (like Bonnie) is talking color--- true, clear colors.


So all those browns, whether antique prints or turn of the 21st-century reproductions, might look dull to fans of chartreuse and shocking pink (a revival of the colors of the 1950s and '60s).

The brown color palette was just one style in the 19th century. There were plenty of other fashionable looks.

Basket about 1880

And today browns remain important as authentic reproductions. Without browns, reproduction quilters would be at a loss. Plus those toned down colors are a great decorating palette. Brown is a classic neutral that goes well with wood.


Browns from my current Civil War Homefront collection for Moda

Triple Nine Patch by me and the Sew Whatever group, 2003
The pattern for this and the Lost Ship are in America's Printed Fabrics, which has some lovely brown quilts and fabric on the cover.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Lafayette or Jackson?


I love the internet!


A few weeks ago I did a post about Centennial fabrics from 1876 and showed a picture of cotton printed that year with a portrait in a wreath. I identified the portrait as the Marquis de Lafayette, a revolutionary war hero who visited the United States in the mid-1820s. The Centennial print is supposed to be a reproduction of an earlier print done for Lafayette's return tour.

Detail of a nine patch about 1880

See it by clicking here:
http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2010/04/centennial-prints.html


Andrea sent a scan of some similar fabric she has, but she noted:

The coloring in my fabric seemed somewhat different from yours… Is it the same or different?
It is different. The most noticeable differences are details in the portrait and the color in the leaves in the wreath. Her leaves are overprinted with blue and yellow, a typical way to obtain green with natural dyes. The registration (overlap of colors) is off, a clue to a print before 1860 or so.

I think Andrea may have the original of that portrait print, probably from about 1830, a pretty rare item.

Marquis de Lafayette by Charles Wilson Peale
But I haven't felt good about that being Lafayette. Why do we think it is him being depicted on fabric about 1830 and again 40 years later?

It's because the standard reference says it's him. Herbert Ridgway Collins was curator of textiles at the Smithsonian when he wrote the book on the topic in 1979. Threads of History showed a swatch of the Centennial print with the caption that it's a portrait of Lafayette.

Apparently the Magazine Antiques showed a piece with that identification in the 1940s. Textile historian Florence Peto wrote a letter to her friend Elizabeth Richardson

January 16, 1945


Antiques showed that print one time too and published some speculation about it. Most people think it represents Lafayette; and that the cotton was to celebrate his second visit to America in 1824. I did a great deal of hard research on that cotton, trying to identify the portrait. I was one who questioned the identification of Lafayette. Why is he in an American uniform of the 1812 period? The uniform is that of our naval heroes of that period. But the face doesn't match any portrait I could find in an NY or NJ library or museum or historical society…

I saw that letter in the Richardson Collection at the department of  Manuscripts and Archives at the Kentucky Library and Museum last summer. I made a mental note to see if I could clear up the confusion. Like most of my mental notes it was completely forgotten.

But when I saw Andrea's fabric with a clearer portrait I realized it was President Andrew Jackson. Because of the internet I didn't have to do a "great deal of hard research." I spent about 20 minutes scrolling through portraits of Jackson and Lafayette.

Andrew Jackson by Ralph Eleaser Whiteside Earl, 1817

This portrait by his friend Earl shows Jackson as the hero of the Battle of New Orleans in 1815, when he was nearing 50.

There were many differences in uniforms of a General in the Revolution and a General in the War of 1812. Both feature gold shoulder epaulettes but Jackson's has a high collar with gold frogging.

The Earl portrait may be the basis of the toile depicting Jackson that is thought to be a celebration of his inauguration as President in 1829. Note the braid to the right of the buttons.

Older print on left about 1830
Newer one on right about 1876

The toile may have inspired the smaller-scale multi-color calico on the left, about the same time, with gold epaulettes, frogging and buttons.

Florence Peto worked so hard to find a likeness of Jackson that matched the cotton print. If only she'd had the internet. Read more about her at the Quilt Show by clicking here:

http://www.thequiltshow.com/os/articles.php/articles_id/21



The paintings are from the National Portrait Gallery.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Negative Thinking

People often ask if I can recommend a mid-19th-century pattern appropriate for a Civil-War-era reproduction quilt. One style of applique quilt, relatively popular in the decades before the war and almost forgotten now, reverses the figure and ground.

It's not reverse applique---the technique in the block below for the star in the center and the holes in the leaves.


Block dated 1845
The flower and leaves are done in conventional applique. The oval holes in the leaves and the star in the center are done in reverse applique--- the calico is cut out to reveal the white background.
These are the more common mid-century techniques.


Sunburst quilt of Turkey reds on white, 1840-1870.
Collection of Laura Fisher

In conventional applique we apply the figures to the background---the visual background is the actual background. In this period style the visual background is the applique foreground. When you look closely at the red and white quilt above you can see that the sunburst is appliqued but it is not the spiky white points that are appliqued.

  
It's the red pie-shaped pieces that are appliqued atop the white.
The negative space in the design pops out.

Block dated 1848
These nine patch variations of a common block often called Bear's Paw were sometimes appliqued rather than pieced in the 1840s and '50s. In the example above, the quiltmaker began with white corner squares and appliqued 2 yellow triangles and one yellow square on top of the white.

Below is a deconstructed block I found. It's one of the appliqued corners. I hope you can see the tiny applique stitches.


 

To make this you'd need a white square for background and two brown triangles and a brown square to applique.


You'd make four such corners and then turn it into a nine patch.

 Click here to see one in the collection of the International Quilt Study Center and Museum.
It's an album quilt dated 1847 from Byron and Sara Dillow's collection.

My guess on a pattern is:
For a 9" finished block

  • Cut 5 white squares 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"

  • Cut 4 dark squares 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"
For the corners cut

  • 8 dark squares 1 3/4"

  • Cut 4 of these squares in half diagonally to make  8 triangles

  • Applique the dark pieces to the corners, turning under a small seam allowance.

  • Piece into a nine patch

It's the same principle in the Wreath of Hearts I appliqued several years ago.
The appliqued hearts disappear while the negative space, the background fabric, creates a sunburst.


Here's an unusual pattern that looks to be about 1850
It's a combination of negative and positive applique that was posted on an online auction recently..
The center floral shape is the white background showing through.
The applique there is the curved triangular pieces.
The four simple leaf shapes coming out of the corners are done in conventional applique.
You can see it's not reverse applique because those curved triangular shapes are laid down individually at least in the blue violet example above.
The pink block could be reverse applique, but I doubt it.

So if you are looking for an authentic Civil-War-era pattern think about an appliqued Bear's Paw Nine Patch.