QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Tuesday, April 22, 2025

Open! By Chance


I have been posting in this Material Culture blog space on a regular schedule for 16 years. My major purpose since 2009 has been to discuss antique quilts with news of museum exhibits, discussion in academic forums, meetings and seminars with papers by textile and specifically quilt historians.

As you may realize, exhibits in government-funded museums are history. With no government grants or financial support for art, women's studies, humanities and accurate American history no museum can afford to rent a traveling quilt show or organize their own. Currently I can find no American antique exhibits at state-sponsored or federally-backed museums to discuss. (Do see the recent Australian show on quilts made of war uniforms a few weeks ago here:    https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2025/04/annette-geros-show-in-australia.html )

A second purpose has been to keep quilters informed about reproduction quilting fabrics that I and other designers have been producing for decades in a smoothly running partnership of international suppliers, printers, designers and retailers.  Now there is no way to make sense of the train wreck of current American trade policy... I see Moda is raising yardage prices by 7% (wholesale.)

"The majority of our business is done with Japan, Korea, 
with other substrates from India, Indonesia, and Pakistan...."
Since April 5th, all goods produced in those mills
have been incurring additional tariffs.

So I find myself with little to write about. My plan is to post information if I can find anything positive to say but no longer on the regular schedule every few days. Just when something relevant might interest readers.

Check back every so often. Who knows? Things might look up!



Friday, April 18, 2025

The Calico King: Matthew Borden

About 1900 the American Printing Company in Fall River, Massachusetts was the world's largest cloth printing company.


"The largest textile operation of its kind"

The Fall River Historical Society tells us: Standard cotton prints manufactured in Fall River were "a plain weave textile with sixty-four threads per inch in both warp and weft; it was an inexpensive commodity...introduced in Fall River by Job Eddy (1778-1853) in 1824 in a small building of the Pocasset Manufacturing Company."

"Our Shirtings are a selected 64x64 print cloth."

Quilting fabric today tends to have a 60 to 70 thread count.

I thought I'd look into the Calico King's life & business. As with most biographical snapshots the picture wasn't always pretty.

Matthew Chaloner Durfee Borden (1842 – 1912)
Early 1860's while he was at Yale.

Matthew Borden was born into a wealthy Massachusetts family, quite interrelated and linked to the dry goods business over generations. After an elite education at Phillips Andover & Yale he became a sales rep for the family's Fall River mill American Print Works, which faced financial problems in 1879. Borden and his brother Thomas re-organized it as the American Printing Company.

Six years later Thomas sold his share to Matthew.
M.C.D. Borden of Fall River became "The Calico King."

1897 feature from an Ohio newspaper
Borden seems to have employed an effective publicist who kept his name
in the papers, often with the nickname "The Calico King."



Matthew Borden may have been the King of Calico but he is not the most famous Borden of Fall River.

Lizzie Andrew Borden (1860-1927)
You'll recall his cousin Lizzie who in 1892
"took an ax and gave her mother forty whacks."

There were a lot of Bordens and they had a lot of trouble. Lizzie's uncle Lawdwick Borden's wife Eliza Darling Borden suffered a terrible case of post-partum depression in 1848 and drowned her infant boy. She tried to drown her older daughter who survived. Eliza then slit her own throat.


The New England Quilt Museum owns this 1825-1850 quilt that might
have been stitched by Mary Ann Bessey Borden (1810-1894.) The star
quilt was found in her home after she and her husband had died.



M.C.D. Borden

Matthew C.D. Borden has a reputation as a kind man and a fair employer (perhaps thanks to his publicist.) A glimpse into his personality is seen, however, in his will. In a plot Agatha Christie might have concocted the will read in 1912 surprised the family with a secret codicil disinheriting son Dr. Matthew S. Borden unless he divorced his Jewish wife Mildred Nelson Negbauer Borden (1877-1930.) Apparently, just not their class as her father was a tailor in New Haven. 

1912
Dr. Matthew Sterling Borden (1872-1914) and wife 
Mildred Nelson Negbauer Borden (1877-1930)

Matthew & Mildred had already divorced once to please his father (and collect some money) then secretly remarried. In September, 1914 after accepting a million dollars for not contesting the will Matthew's life went downhill.  Driving recklessly, he was killed, taking his passengers, his chauffeur and 2 friends with him. Just a few weeks earlier he'd killed Flushing policeman John Mee and his horse in another careless driving incident.

Yikes!
The Bordens (apparently related to the Simpsons)....

Read more:  Parallel Lives: A Social History of Lizzie A. Borden and Her Fall River, by Michael Martins and Dennis A. Binette, Fall River Historical Society Press.

Lizzie Borden on Trial: Murder, Ethnicity, and Gender. By Joseph A. Conforti. Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 2015.

Saturday, April 12, 2025

Morris Manor: Arts & Crafts Embroidery or Applique

 

Inspired by this antique Arts & Crafts textile I thought I'd do a simplified
version for a pillow using my new Morris Manor prints



Much simplified....

Sunflower in Morris Manor

See an earlier post in which I was thinking about table runners.



Arts & Crafts embroidery on linen...
Rather abstract floral

Appliqued and embroidered

If you know anyone in Altadena decorations for the tables and chairs might make nice gifts.
A lot of valuable Arts & Crafts textiles went up in smoke.

Wednesday, April 9, 2025

Annette Gero's Show in Australia

 

Detail of an English wool quilt, mid 18th century

Dr. Annette Gero, who's been collecting quilts stitched from British soldiers' uniforms for many years, has curated an exhibit at Queensland's Cairns Gallery in Australia. War Quilts: The Annette Gero Collection is on exhibit until June 15, 2025.

https://www.cairnsartgallery.com.au/whats-on/exhibitions/war-quilts

Some photos from the gallery and my far-flung correspondent Marie.



"This is an extraordinary exhibition of quilts made by military men from their army or naval uniforms. They were made by soldiers, sailors and regimental tailors using richly dyed, felted wools – the military fabrics of the past three-hundred years. They reveal service in the Prussian, Napoleonic, and Crimean wars, and in British India. But of special relevance in this exhibition are the Australian quilts from World Wars I and II, including those made by prisoners of war."









Sunday, April 6, 2025

2025 Raffle Quilts

 

Northwest Suburban Guild
Barb Jolley Quilter
Inspired by Lisa Leatham Mason

Looking for a quilt show on your phone? Do a search for Raffle Quilt Guild 2025.

Forsyth Quilters Guild

I like to view what guilds around the country are stitching to see if I can spot trends, etc.

Maine State Quilt Guild
Happily Ever After Pattern by Mary-Jeanine Ibarguen

Hands Across the Valley Quilt Guild
   Pattern-Bonnie Hunter

Do a search for the guild name and you might find a place to buy tickets.
Many of the drawings are in May.

Kaw Valley Quilt Guild
Getting Our Tula On, Tula Pink pattern City Sampler

Lighthouse Quilters Guild

Lincoln Quilt Guild
Patrice Steiner & Sandy Montooth, Edyta Sitar Pattern

Quilt Guild of Greater Kansas City

No consensus on taste. 
Tradition/color/spectacular piecing/lavish machine quilting/clever repeat....

Wyoming State Guild
Karen K Stone Pattern

Bloomington Quilters  Guild
Sandra Warren & Jane Pitt

UPDATE: Louise sent a picture of her guild's quilt Elmira NY Quilt Guild, 
made by the Piecemakers with the designer holding it up.