QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Monday, August 23, 2021

Almira's Square in a Square

 

A few weeks ago I posted a design for my repro collection Ladies' Legacy for Moda based on a square in a square block.

From the Oregon project & the Quilt Index

And then I came across this quilt top by Alvira L. Empey Kinsman  (ca. 1870-?) of Iowa who dated it 1905. 

I had to find out a little about Alvira. Alvira Empey was born in Minnesota. She married for a second time in 1905 (Is this the date?). The 1910 census in Des Moines tells us that she was 38 and had been married to Richard M. Kinsman for 5 years. Richard worked at a grain elevator as a grain buyer. 


Iowa Grain Elevators---the tall buildings on the plains

Her first husband was W. F. Smitt or Smith whom she married in 1900 in Minnesota.

She and Richard lived in Woodward, now a neighborhood in greater Des Moines.

Richard's first wife Hannah had died leaving him with four children. Together they had 2-year-old Ray and would add one more child Clara Mae in 1911.

1910 census

Back to the quilt top, which is such a great composition of simple parts:


I drew it up in EQ8 as a 9x9 quilt of 10" finished blocks giving
you a 90" x 90" quilt. You need 36 pieced squares in a square and
45 unpieced blocks cut 10-1/2" (25 red squares, 20 white.)


I shaded it in different ways using the basic red, white and blue color
scheme Almira used and the Ladies' Legacy reds, whites and blues.


Here I added some pinks trying to create a twisted ribbon look.

It's two different colored blocks.

Pinks

Pattern drawn in EQ8

The square in a square block is a theme for Ladies's Legacy projects. 

See Becky Brown's Nine Diamond quilt here:

Thursday, August 19, 2021

My Crazy Dream

 

Center of a Crazy Quilt by Mary M. Maynard Ricard (1838-1915)
Haverhill, Massachusetts

74" x 69"
International Quilt Museum
In the center a pavilion or pagoda---
A fair, a resort or a fantasy home?

A self-portrait with daughters Julia and Caroline?

"Mary M. H. Ricard
My crazy dream" 
is embroidered in a corner.
Mary left us many clues to her identity, some misleading.

Begun 1872 - Haverhill - 1912
UPDATE: See Louise's comments on reading the date. Is that a 7 or a 2. (2 with a dot?)

A portrait of the artist (?) printed on silk signed
M. Hernandred Ricard
This looks like a professional portrait of an entertainer.

Is Hernandred, as the word has been interpreted, really the word Mary wrote? Hernandred is not a name. Family Search kindly checked 28 million files for me and found not one person named Hernandred. Hernandez yes, but that word is not Hernandez. However, I found out what she meant. Scroll down.


Penny McMorris featured Mary's quilt on the cover of her 1984 book Crazy Quilts.


Looking for a Mary M. H. Ricard in Haverhill, as her embroidered signature reads, gives us many clues to the maker, born Mary M. Maynard in Reading Vermont in 1838. She married French Canadian Hubert Ricard (1836-1903) in Manchester, New Hampshire in 1858. 

1860 Census Manchester

Two years later the census finds her a "Landlady" running a boarding house for textile mill workers in mill town Manchester with a one-year-old daughter and a blacksmith husband. It looks like she has two Irish-born servants Mary Caughlin and Bridget Cone to assist in housekeeping. 

A Boarding House 
Manchester Historical Association


During the early 1860s they moved to Haverhill, Massachusetts where Hubert prospered as a manufacturer and a retailer.

In 1870 the city directory lists Hubert as a machinist and die cutter
with a partner George Eaton
They were doing well as Hubert's "h," their home, was at 22 Winter Street.

A short block here of substantial houses...

Winter Street seemed to have residences on one side of the street
and businesses on the other, among them Ricard & Eaton
in this early 20th century picture of the block from the Haverhill
Library. The first doorway they say is Ricard & Eaton.

The late-19th century local history tells us "He was a progressive and enterprising merchant of unusual ability and he acquired a competence [not a huge fortune but enough.]"


The 1870 census doesn't list him as unusually well-to-do and their big house is again full of boarders,
perhaps people who work for him. Mary is listed as keeping house (but that doesn't mean she didn't earn money outside the home---married women's census occupations are not a reliable report.)

The 1900 census lists them as living by themselves, the children have grown, the boarders are gone and Hubert's occupation is landlord, Mary's blank.

Social note from Ludlow, Vermont, 1902
Mary's husband Hubert died the following year.


From the Cutter local history of the area in the early 20th century.

Mary finished her crazy quilt in 1912 and died three years later.



The hen and chicks at the top here may be cut from a pictorial
cretonne like this cotton chicken print....

quite a popular idea in New England quilts for the 1880s and '90s

Mary attached a variety of needlework scraps. The sitting child might
be cross stitch embroidery, tiny wool Berlin-work.

Her beginning date of 1872 embroidered in a corner may refer to some of the embroidery she incorporated. We just don't see the crazy quilt idea till 10 years later.

She included a sunflower, a necessary nod to the
aesthetic movement and Oscar Wilde.

Mary's quilt is now at the International Quilt Museum in Nebraska,
a treat for visiting crazy quilt fans like Allie Aller and Valerie Bothell.

I became interested in Mary Ricard's quilt because there was some reference to her being a professional seamstress, a milliner. I found no evidence of that but it remains a reasonable possibility. Occupations included boarding house keeper and a landlady at different points in her life. I wonder if she was a mill worker before her marriage and that's how she came to Manchester from Vermont.

Daughter Carrie Brooks lived in Missoula
where this was published in April, 1915.

And her obituary described her as an "elocutionist and reader." This is a clue worth following. Here we have Madame Hernandred Ricard, an entertainer advertised here in the Boston Globe in 1878.

She was a "Great Dramatic Elocutionist"
also described in other ads as an impersonator, elocutionist and a reader.
She impersonated celebrities.

A review in the Globe in 1879.
Would have liked to have seen that (I think.)

Marie Selika (1849-1937)


Daughter Carrie accompanied her and they seem to have achieved some success as here they are performing with Marie Selika, a well respected soprano invited by Rutherford & Lucy Hayes to perform at the White House the following year.

A review of Marie Selika's voice and the Ricard's entertainments
from that 1880 performance.

My Crazy Dream indeed!

Some links:

https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/169115106/mary-m-ricard

https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/19970070541

https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=36-34-418

Look up Madame Hernandred Ricard in the New England newspapers. Her career seems to have thrived from about 1878 to 1882 when she was in her early 40s.


Sunday, August 15, 2021

Flora Delanica #11: Damask Rose


Flora Delanica, Block #11, Rosa damascena, Damask Rose by Becky Brown.
The Damask Rose is for the Queen.

 
Queen Charlotte (1744 - 1818)

German princess Charlotte Sophia of Mecklenburg-Strelitz married the young King George III in 1761. Mary Delany was old enough to be her grandmother, but they formed a bond of friendship in the later years of Mary's life.

The silk, embroidered sewing kit is thought to be the work
of the Queen, made as a gift for Mary Delany in 1781.

A note accompanied it. The Queen hoped Mary would wear "This little Pocket-Book in order to remember at times, when no dearer Person’s are present, a very sincere well wisher, Friend, and affectionate Queen, Charlotte."


Enclosed gold tools included a small scissors. Mary's maid Mrs Rhea described it:
"A beautiful pocket case, the outside satin work’d with gold and ornaments with gold spangles, the inside lined with pink satin and contained a knife, sizsars, pencle, rule, compass, bodkin."
The kit with its enameled clasp is now in the Queen's Royal Collection Trust, perhaps 
 purchased in 1931 by Queen Mary who enjoyed collecting
royal antiques.

Queen Charlotte's gift was an exchange for a present Mary Delany made to the Queen a few weeks earlier, an album of her paper cuts, which is also in the Royal Collection Trust.
Do a search for Delany there.

Silhouette of George III

Block #11  Damask Rose by Nancy Phillips in wool.

Despite her family's reputation supporting Jacobin rival claimants to England's throne, Mary Delany had enjoyed a position on the fringes of the Georgian court through most of her life. In her last decade she moved close to the center of the very domestic life of Charlotte and George III.

A Folded Bud from Nancy

In summer, 1776 George III and Charlotte asked to see Mary's floralegium, the Flora Delanica. The royals, enthusiastic botanists with at that point eleven children to educate, were so pleased with the paper collages they asked their gardeners to keep Mary supplied with exotic specimens that came into the Royal Gardens at Kew.

The King leading the Queen and their six daughters, about 1800
Attributed to William Rought, Royal Trust Collection

The royals took to dropping in on her and her friends. King George III was a little odd (even before his behavior deteriorated to madness). In 1783 he made the eight-mile trip from Windsor to Margaret's home Bulstrode Park.
"The Duchess of Portland and I were sitting in the long gallery, very busy with our different employments, when, without any ceremony, his Majesty walked up to our table, unperceived and unknown till he came quite up to us. You may believe we were at first a little fluttered with his royal presence; but his courteous and affable manner soon made him a welcome guest. He came to inform the Duchess of Portland of the Queen's perfect recovery after her lying-in [the birth of her last child]...after a visit of two hours, the King left us."
It's lovely to have distinguished company but really, he should have sent a card or something warning of the visit. You know how irritating it is to be interrupted in the middle of a project. This vignette also gives us a nice glimpse of how Mary and Margaret spent their mornings, "very busy with our different employments," Margaret perhaps sorting her collection of 20,000 shells; Mary cutting paper flowers.

Silk embroidered picture in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum
of the gardens at Kew. 

Detail of Becky's Damask Rose

When the Duchess of Portland died in 1785, the Queen knew Mary would be lonely. Losing her sight at 85 she was in need of a comfortable home so the Royals offered her a residence on the grounds of Windsor Castle, a "grace and favour" gift, with a substantial annual allowance.

Views of the Interior and Exterior of Windsor Castle, Joseph Nash, 1839 
“‘My dear Mrs Delany will be glad to hear that I am charged by the King to summon her to her new abode at Windsor for Tuesday next, where she will find all the most essential parts of the house ready, excepting some little trifles, which it will be better for Mrs Delany to direct herself in person, or by her little deputy, Miss Port [Mary's grandniece].....That we may long enjoy her amiable company, Amen . 
These are the true sentiments of my dear Mrs Delany's very affectionate Queen."
 Georgina Mary Ann Port (1771-1850), Mary's sister's granddaughter
who assisted Mary in her last years.

11 Rosa cluster Damask, Damask Rose

The rose garden at Windsor Castle's east terrace

The Block
#11 Damask Rose


Applique on the diagonal to an square cut 10-1/2" or on the vertical center of a rectangle cut 9-1/2" x 12-1/2".

One Way to Print the Pattern:
Create a word file or a new empty JPG file that is 8-1/2" x 11".
Click on the image above.
Right click on it and save it to your file.
Print that file out 8-1/2" x 11". Note the inch square block for reference.
Adjust the printed page size if necessary.


Rosebuds from Becky's Damask Rose

A Little More Mary Delany

A Stem of Stock, Royal Collection Trust,
The British Museum has the largest collection of Delany
paper cuts; the Royal Collection Trust, the second.
This framed collage has faded.

Further Reading & Viewing

"Crafting Friendship: Mary Delany’s Album and Queen Charlotte’s Pocketbook" by Madeleine Pelling
http://www.journal18.org/nq/crafting-friendship-mary-delanys-album-and-queen-charlottes-pocketbook-by-madeleine-pelling/

The Madness of King George is a 1994 movie, a comedy drama about King George III's mental illness that reached a crisis point with a psychotic mania in the fall of 1788. Mary Delany never lived to see this frightening deterioration as she had died earlier in the year.

Read Janice Hadlow's A Royal Experiment (published as Strangest Family in Great Britain.) The Georgian years, Mary Granville Delany's 18th century, were indeed strange and this book tells us much about Queen Charlotte and her family and a bit about Mary Delany, whose letters are a source for information about the unhappy royals.
Preview here: