QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Saturday, June 1, 2024

Wreath of Roses:1854 Pattern Name

 

Wreath of Roses by Carrie Hall, circa 1930,
 Spencer Museum of Art

People love to know the names of quilt patterns, a question I'm often asked. Mostly, I answer the fancy names are of fairly recent invention, designed to sell patterns. However, during the 1850s we hear of a few pattern names, as in this example in a story published in 1854 in Arthur's Home Magazine by a woman from Ohio who used the pen name Rosella.

Wreath from Baltimore with a medallion print featured in the roses

Rosella apparently was not a fan of fussy applique telling us in the story that fancy quilts brought to mind the makers' "aching heads, lustreless eyes and worn fingers...a life passing away in stitches." A sturdy nine-patch was a much better use of one's time.

Nine-Patch Quilt signed and dated 1816 Amy Perry

The fancy quilts she names "Love in Eden" and "Flower of Paradise" are enough to drive a pattern historian crazy---What did they look like? Did she make up those names with fictional license? Fiction writers were more likely to use pattern names than diary keepers.

The Shelburne Museum owns a mid-19th century sampler with pattern names embroidered:
"Wreath of Rose Buds"

The third of Rosella's names, however, is easy to identify. "Wreath of Roses" is not only descriptive, but the name persisted into the 20th-century literature where several designers showed a "Wreath of Roses."

Marie Webster pictured this rather sparse antique version she called 
Wreath of Roses or Conventional Rose Wreath in her 1915 book.
Entry from my Encyclopedia of Applique, which has been through two editions,
indexing 2,000 published and unpublished applique designs.

Each numbered pattern is grouped by construction, such as wreath.


I usually credit the earliest publication of a pattern name for each design, although many pattern sources followed Webster in selling Wreath of Roses patterns, they are not listed.


The agricultural magazine The Rural New Yorker's "Wreath of Roses Quilt" in 1926.

From Marguerite Ickes's 1949 book 
The Standard Book of Quilt Making and Collecting

Lately I've been working on my Photoshop skills by drawing 12" patterns for SOME of the
2,000 designs in the Encyclopedia of Applique.

Pattern for a 12" finished Wreath of Roses block--- a bit more robust rose.

At its basic level--- a wreath with roses on the north/south axes and a variety of leaf shapes---
This pattern is one of the most popular of American appliques. It's been published with
many names and many added details and differences.


Garden Wreath
Ruth Finley


Pattern for a 12" finished Garden Wreath block
Print on an 8-1/2 x 11" sheet

More layers in the rose, a more complex bell-shaped leaf



During the Colonial Revival era of design (1890-1950) when the block variations above and below were stitched, quiltmakers may have particularly enjoyed the Martha Washington reference.


President's Wreath--- Five-lobed leaves pictured in Hall & Kretsinger's 1935 book


Four patterns down, 1,996 to go.

You probably need a copy of the Encyclopedia of Applique. They'll print you a paper copy at C&T Publishing, but you might prefer a digital PDF as you can search and clip and save so easily:


Monday, May 27, 2024

Freedom's Friends Finishes

 

Sharon A. Bennet

Appliqued by Georgann Eglinski, Quilted by Becky Collis.



Every year I design two Block-of-the-Month patterns, one pieced and one appliqued, on my blog Civil War Quilts. Two years ago we stitched Freedom's Friends. Georgann and Becky won a ribbon at our recent guild show with their version.

Tops are getting finished. Here's Nat Palaski's.
(Unlike some people Nat followed the pattern.)

Rebecca Schnekenburger did two versions.


Deanna Street added more patterns

And our Japanese follower at Thistly Room has solved the inches to meters
conversion problem by using my inch measurements as millimeters.
 (Making for some small blocks.)

Elly VD quilted and bound each block separately,
a "Pot-Holder Quilt."

Post here with links to all 12 free patterns if you want to make one.

More Finishes here:

Our Facebook Group

If you'd like to buy all the patterns now for $12 in a PDF to print yourself here's a link to my Etsy shop:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1155035028/freedoms-friends-applique-quilt-bom

Nancy Benofske



Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Baltimore Soldier Memorial Blocks

A new pattern based on vintage Baltimore blocks

The Mexican War of the 1840s rang many chords in Baltimore. The move to increase slave-holding Southern territory by annexing Mexican land west of Louisiana increased the U.S. territory by about 33%.

Quiltmakers showed religious and social affiliations, temperance enthusiasm and pride in the city in the appliqued album quilts they began making in the mid 1840s there.

Julie Silber's Inventory
A small quilt, perhaps assembled after 1880 when dyes for the border
were not as reliable as the earlier dyes for the blocks.

The quilt artists also captured warhawk sentiment with patriotic images such as eagles and flags. The most obvious allusion to the nearly 2-year war is seen in monuments to fallen heroes Major Samuel Ringgold and Colonel William H. Watson.


Cathy Erickson's Collection

I'd always assumed these architectural structures represented the martyred soldiers' tombs where they are buried but Baltimore Album Quilt expert Virginia Vis tells me the repeated image is of a cenotaph, a once-common word for a memorial that does not mark a grave.

"The Mexican War hero monuments were temporary structures in the open space of the Baltimore Merchants Exchange. The rifles were leaned up against the 'fence' around the structures with the names [to keep] the public at a distance...."
Colonial Williamsburg Collection

Merchants' Exchange (1815-1900)

I checked the newspapers of 1846 and found much about the temporary cenotaph constructed for Samuel Ringgold that was supposed to be 22 feet tall, constructed of wood by local builders the Gifford Brothers, topped with an eagle and draped for drama by a Baltimore draper named Shole. The rifles pictured in the quilt blocks were actual weapons propped up to define the space and add more martial reminders to the mix.

Baltimore Sun, December 18, 1846
Description of the journey of Major Ringgold's remains to the building's rotunda

Baltimore Museum of Art Collection

Ringgold and perhaps Watson lay in state near this structure for a few days in December, 1846 and then went on to less magnificent final resting places.

The BAQ History Crew has identified several quilts with the Ringgold memorial and two or three with the Watson reference. Imagery and fabrics in the blocks seem to fall into two major categories leading us to assume that at least two professional seamstresses offered their interpretations for the patriotic customer to include in her quilt. Were they kits, patterns or finished blocks?

Shelburne Museum Collection

We have no period photo of the monument in 1846. Twenty-two feet is about 2 stories tall, perhaps an exaggeration---although the rotunda with its dome could have accommodated a sculpture that tall. We can compare size in the rifles edging the scene. 

Union soldier with a Lohrenz rifle

The Springfield rifle of the time was 56 inches long. The structure in the Shelburne's Major Ringgold quilt is about twice the size making it a little taller than 9 feet--- impressive but not 2 stories.

D.A.R. Museum Collection
The second version of the memorial. No rifles---urns?
This one does have a taller appearance.


The Baltimore Daily Commercial ran this engraving of the monument, which seems to have few visual commonalities with the quilt blocks. 
The new pattern is derived from several of the original blocks.
Cut the background 15-1/2" square.

See more about Baltimore Album quilts and that war here:

https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2024/05/anglo-saxon-quilts-2-mexican-war.html


Quilt in collection of the International Quilt Museum with 3 memorial blocks.



Friday, May 17, 2024

Octagonal Star Block--Or Not

 

Quilt that looks to be 1940-1960

Unusual pattern in that the star is in an octagonal block, which alternates with a small square. 


Similar to Eveline Foland's pattern for an octagonal pillow in the Kansas City Star in 1931.

But Foland's star points are split in half so the star and the shapes around it are the same.


The colors chosen create an odd result---rather noisy.

Blue calms things down.

And you might prefer a square block.

So here's a pattern for Celestial, a very calm 10" Star in a square block.


Sunday, May 12, 2024

Samantha at the World's Fair in 1893


Samantha and husband Josiah Allen at the 1893 
Columbian Exposition in Chicago. 

Next year we are going to piece a Block-of-the-Month based on women journalists who covered the Civil War and I've been reading about "The Petticoat Press." Marietta Holley was of a younger generation so I am not including her in the group of 12 female newspaper reporters. She wasn't a reporter but a successful feature writer who did humorous pieces, collected into books.


I was pleased to find her book-length account of country bumpkin Samantha, "Josiah Allen's Wife's"  visit to the 1893 World's Fair. For years Merikay Waldvogel and I have been studying the displays at that influential fair and have concluded that although many family tales and newspaper accounts mention a quilt hung there----very few were.

You had to be royalty as Samantha reported.


The most remarked upon textile was attributed to Mary Queen of Scots. See a post here on this elusive artifact: https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-columbian-exposition-quilts-2-16th.html


The illustrations are by Baron Constantin De Grimm who
did a great job imagining Queen Victoria packing up a few things.




 Like everyone else the Allens were impressed by the new Ferris wheel,
which was the inspiration for a name for these popular name quilts arranged
in wheel fashion....


Quilt dated 1909, Nebraska Project & the Quilt Index

...Perhaps the most significant quilt-related piece of history to come from that fair.

Quilt with many dates, probably from 1907.
Massachusetts project & the Quilt Index.

More posts on the 1893 fair:
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-columbian-exhibition-1-crazy-quilts.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-columbian-exposition-quilts-2-16th.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-worlds-columbian-exposition-3.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-worlds-columbian-exposition-4.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-worlds-columbian-exposition-5.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-worlds-columbian-exposition-6.html
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2021/10/1893-worlds-columbian-exposition-7.html