QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Monday, March 15, 2021

Flora Delanica #6: Purple Raspberry


Flora Delanica #6  Purple Flowering Raspberry by Becky Brown.

Flora Delanica #6  Purple Flowering Raspberry (Rubrus Odoratus)
A flowering berry can remind us of the late bloom in Mary's happiness after she
married Patrick Delany.

Mary Pendarves and close friend Anne Donnellen spent 18 months in Ireland in the early 1730's where Mary was welcomed into the intellectual circle surrounding Jonathan Swift, satirist, political writer and Dean in Dublin's Anglican Church, a man she described as an "odd companion [who] talks a great deal and does not require many answers." 

Jonathan Swift 1667 - 1745

But as Mary's biographer Ruth Hayden notes: Swift was impressed with her answers, intrigued by a woman with "a perceptive and original mind."

Swift is best remembered for writing the enduring Gulliver's Travels,
here an image in a thread advertisement.

Patrick Delany (1686 - 1768)

Swift's friends included Dr. Patrick Delany who with his new wife Margaret Tennison hosted a Dublin salon where the talk was sparkling and sophisticated. Swift described Dr. Delany as a "man of the easyest and best conversation." Poet and woman-about-town Laetitia Pilkington praised him in her memoir:
"Of all the gentleman I ever knew, this I must say, that Dr. Delany excels in one point particularly; which is, in giving an elegant entertainment, with ease, cheerfulness, and a hospitality, which makes the company happy." 

 

Purple Raspberry in wool by Nan Phillips

After Mary returned to England in 1733 she kept in touch with Swift and several Irish friends. About ten years after her visit Patrick Delany, now a widower, surprised Mary with a letter proposing marriage. She'd had many proposals over the years, turning down fortunes, rank and several fools in favor of her independent life, but pleasant memories of Dr. Delany inclined her to accept. They married when she was 43 and he was 58. She moved to Ireland to become a Dean's wife and mistress of his Dublin house Delville.

Delville on Glasnevin Hill from an engraving by Mary's friend Letitia Bushe,
 home to the Delanys' 25-year union. 

Mary loved Ireland with its its natural world and simplicity compared to London. Aware of economic problems she encouraged local manufacture, particularly in textiles, and organized charity concerts by her London friend George Frideric Handel (1685 -1759) who introduced his Messiah in Dublin on April 13, 1742.

Mary's drawing of their fashionable naturalistic garden,
 now part of the National Botanic Gardens.
 BonSecours Hospital is on the site of the house.
"I have a most extensive & beautiful prospect of the harbour & town of Dublin, and a range of mountains in various shapes."
She passed her days busy as usual doing needlework, embroidering a marvelous court dress with flowers, making a quilt and a knotted coverlet, drawing, painting, carving and gilding, gathering natural specimens for her collections and snipping paper for silhouettes and teaching cards for her niece who spent a good deal of time with her.

Detail of a knotted linen bedcover in the collection
of the Ulster Museum. More about Mary's needlework
next month.

Mary recorded a day when she worked on her bedquilt for four hours while housemates Letty Bushe painted and Mrs Greene sewed children's clothes.

Letitia Bushe (about  1705-1757) from a self portrait

Mrs Delany's largest projects were her stucco shell works.


She embellished the chapel and a bed room at Delville with mosaic friezes like the restored version at the Bath House in Warwickshire we saw last month.

Their Temple at Delville, 200 years later,
 destroyed with the house in 1951 when a hospital was built on the site.


D.D. (as she called him) from a sketch by Mary
on an envelope

Dean Delany a most exemplary husband, left Mary a widow again in 1768, dying at 83 years old. Mary, just about 70, returned to England with her maid Mrs. Smyth, accepting hospitality from her well-placed family and friends, particularly her rich if cranky bachelor brother and Margaret Duchess of Portland. Mary bought a London house, which she could afford to maintain with a staff of servants, and enjoyed her life in a circle of widows.

For a large picture of this paper mosaick at the British Museum click here and scroll down:
https://nickyskye.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-delany-collage-artist-of-flowers_21.html

The Block
#6
Purple Raspberry 

You don't have to do ALL Mary's raspberry blooms---or all those stems.

Applique on the diagonal to an square cut 10-1/2" or on the vertical center of a rectangle cut 9-1/2" x 12-1/2".



One Way to Print the Pattern:

Create a word file or a new empty JPG file that is 8-1/2" x 11".
Click on the image above.
Right click on it and save it to your file.
Print that file out 8-1/2" x 11". Note the inch square block for reference.
Adjust the printed page size if necessary.

A better idea of shading and lines in the negative.

Ilyse Moore's #6

A Little More Mary Delany

Passion Flower (Passiflora Laurifolia)
You'd be needing an interesting stripe....

Further Reading, Listening & Viewing

Listen to a little Messiah while stitching Mary's Dublin block. Every year Dubliners sing it in the streets on April 13th.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7DQrvPZh3s

Here's a minute and a half of Messiah history---but it doesn't mention Mary---an omission.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-6glhIlBD0

My blocks get more eccentric every month.

Saturday, March 13, 2021

Lucy Loch Hallman's Sewing Box

A few years ago I bought a package of quilt-related ephemera, the papers
and quilt pieces and patterns of Lucy Ann Loch Hallman.

In the manner of girls Lucy Ann wrote her name in several places.

"Lucy ann Hallman
Paper April 
the 9 18.62"
Her married name.

Pattern for something like an oak leaf and reel...

...sort of like this classic design.

The fabric pieces seem related. Here I've guessed....


The newspaper patterns are cut from a German-language newspaper, not surprising since Loch and Hallman are German names and the patterns were found at a Pennsylvania estate auction. I couldn't find a date in the newspapers but did find a mention of Perkiomenville, a community in Montgomery County, Pennsylvania.

Lucy Ann left quilting designs and patchwork patterns.

The quilting designs are typical mid-19th-century Pennsylvania.

Lucy Ann Loch, before her marriage

And many embroidery designs, possibly traced from
the fashion magazines of the day.

Embroidered edge for a baby's blanket
published in Peterson's Magazine

A collar from Godey's Lady's Book

I had a lot of clues as to who Lucy was but there are quite a few Lochs and Hallmans of German descent in Montgomery County. However, I think I found her. Lucy Ann Loch was born November 14, 1844 in Montgomery County, Pennsylvania, in Southeastern Pennsylvania, daughter of Henry and Lovina (Levina) Scholl Loch.


Here she is at five years old in the 1850 census, only child of blacksmith Henry and Lovina. Her name is spelled Lucana---Lucy Ann?  A second daughter Catherine had been born in 1847 but lived only 15 months. Lucy's father died in 1855 and her mother remarried Johannes Bartman (1810-1902).


One of Lucy's papers is an account page signed by Abraham Hallman. There are two Abraham Hallmans in the neighborhood, father and son. (Forgot to mention they are tailors.) Abraham and Miss Meyer (?) seem to be paying her for piecework sewing.

She may be sewing coats and pants (Bants in German-inspired English)
for a tailor and making not a bad sum--- $18.44 in 1860.

The Abraham Hallman family had another son John Trumbower Hallman (1835-1914) who married Lucy when she was in her teens, possibly in 1862. She gave birth to a son Frank in January, 1863 but never recovered from childbed, dying in April soon after she'd turned 18.


We can imagine her grieving family saving her sewing box. Perhaps it was her mother who kept these pieces. What a pleasure to have a souvenir today of a long ago girl's life.


Lucy was buried in the Wentz Cemetery in Worcester, Montgomery County,
much changed since 1863.

https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/125891843/lucy-ann-hallman

Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Wishing Star in BlockBase+

 

Top last quarter 20th century
Online auction


 Practicing using my new BlockBase+ program I thought I'd see what I could find about this pattern.


Here it is on a page of Eight Pointed Stars: Other Stars on the top row. These are rather miscellaneous stars that look complicated to piece. But stitchers stitched them.

Recently quilted top, originally pieced probably 1940-1960.


I could have searched for it by number 3883 as I knew the number after looking through my Encyclopedia book. It has three published names:
New Star quilt & Wishing Star from Workbasket magazine
& Star of St. Louis from Nancy Cabot.

I have several examples in the picture files

Solid colors harder to date than prints but that pastel green (Nile Green)
looks 1930-1950.

So-- I am looking at these examples and I note that three of my four vintage are not really pieced into blocks.

Late 20th century

The block---white here---is plain. The piecing is in the sashing.

A way to make a star block that is old-fashion and complicated.

This is easier.

I went back to the source Workbasket magazine. And found it in the AntiqueQuiltPatternLibrary's index to Workbasket patterns as Wishing Star
https://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/wbquilt.htm


Published November, 1940, which is a help in dating the quilts above. Workbasket tells you to piece it with plain white blocks (notice piece A & E above.) 

That little magazine was a very popular source for needleworkers in the mid-20th-century: Cheap and offering some innovative ideas.


But I wouldn't follow their advice on piecing this block.


I would use the "Print" button in BlockBase+. First I'd see what
could be rotary cut---triangles & squares along the outside edge.

And then I'd "Print" a pattern by printing a large picture of the block. I chose 10" for the size because that's often the biggest block I can fit on one sheet of paper. I printed the block that size and previewed it. It took up more than one sheet but since the pieces repeat one sheet can give you enough information to make the block.

I saved the first block picture page into Photoshop
and added extra information.
And there you have a 10" pattern for a Wishing Star.

Speaking of Wishing I wish I could have found the source for Star of St. Louis from the Chicago Tribune's Nancy Cabot column but I did not. Some of those Nancy Cabot attributions were taken from other historians' indexes of the 1960s and those were not as accurate as I'd hope.