QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Wednesday, September 16, 2020

Flora Delanica Quilt: Botanical Block of the Month


I don't know about your place but it's been a little dull around here at the old B.O.M. Ranch this year so we've been thinking up an applique project to keep us entertained. 

We'll begin sharing the 12 florals on the 15th of October and you'll find a block here for free on the 15th of every month for a year through August 2021.

Mary Granville Pendarves Delany
(1700-1788)

We're going way back in time about 250 years for our inspiration, drawing from the cut paper collages of Mary Granville Delany, an Englishwoman whose life spanned most of the 1700s.


Read more about Mrs Delany here:


The colored paper collages she called Paper Mosaicks are surprisingly modern in their boldness and color. Mary had a genius for abstraction, accurately rendering botany in simple shapes. During the 1770s and '80s she created nearly 1,000 little masterpieces of observation, her Flora Delanica.

We are simplifying further and adapting a dozen of Mrs Delany's botanical pictures to applique. The head wrangler at the BOM Ranch (moi) has drawn the patterns.
 The champion roper (Becky Brown)  has lassoed my designs into models of perfection. 

We've got a new hand (Nancy Phillips) who has adapted the designs for wool applique.

Denniele's doing raw edge machine applique and
added details with colored pencils.


I've got a couple of other cowpokes asleep in the bunkhouse who are going to get up and get going.

Me, I'm looking at my blocks as Broderie-Perse.

More about fabric for Flora Delanica in the next post.

Dear Mrs Delany:
Sorry about mixing the cowgirl metaphor with your 18th-century images.
BB

Check out our Facebook Group: MARY DELANY QUILT

Sunday, September 13, 2020

Cretonne Quilt Backs

Embroidered wool quilt with large-scale floral cotton back

The other day somebody asked: How old is this quilt?

I said:"Looks like a very common solution for a backing in the 1880-1930 era, a large scale furnishing called a cretonne at the time. Here's a similar idea."


Undated crazy quilt with cretonne backing

There was disagreement. Virginia:
"About 1910.... have not had quilts with that kind of backing cross my work table [earlier] than 1900."

Julie: "Thinking back on other quilts ... I too 'felt it' as likely early 20th century."

SS 1914 dated on the back


Debby sent a link to this log cabin to back up the 20th century theory.

Humph! says I: I'll collect pictures I've got of cretonne backs on dated quilts and show you 19th century.

Like this wool crazy dated 1889 

Wool string quilt dated 1906 on the top
 with 1970s fabric on the back

But I realized pretty quickly that the date on the front of the quilt and the date of the backing fabric could be quite different. And I didn't have enough examples to really tell us anything much.

Now, friends, here's one I feel pretty good about:
Dated 1894 on the top with a cretonne back, cretonne border and
cretonne in the patchwork.


Of course, it's not wool....

And that's about all I got. I looked at quilts dated 1880 to 1930 and apparently I have been wrong, wrong, wrong in assuming that quiltmakers used cretonnes as backing when American-printed cretonnes were first being manufactured, which I assumed was about 1880---I may be too early on that guess too.


I might be able to wiggle back to 1893 when this commemorative for the World's Fair in Chicago was printed.

A few more undated examples: Probably 1910-1930



We'll call them early 20th-century.

I see by the comments that I did not explain cretonne well enough other than ''large-scale floral cotton."  A narrower definition might be a large-scale floral cotton, produced in the U.S. after 1880. Fabric quality varied.

Here's a link to a post:

Thursday, September 10, 2020

Peto's May Basket Kit

Floral Basket, New England, c. 1870
 (Betty Sterling, photograph courtesy Mr. & Mrs Leonard Balish.)
Leonard Balish was an antique dealer in Englefield, New Jersey

Basket sampler pictured in Robert Bishop's & Patricia Coblentz's 1975 book
 New Discoveries in American Quilts, pg 102.

This quilt may have been inspiration for a Paragon quilt kit 
designed by New Jerseyite Florence Peto.


Quilt made from the kit. 

Linda Knutson wrote a bit about the kit for her South Carolina guild 
newsletter and said it was published in 1966.

Trish Failla posted this quilt on the Quilts Vintage & Antique Facebook group.
Other versions were shown.

Donna Vitale's collection

Denyse Theodore Eisenhardt recently made this one based on the pattern,
hand appliqued and hand quilted.

UPDATE: Penpal Barbara Schaffer commented:

According to Cuesta Benberry's research and contribution to New Jersey project book A Passion for Quilts: The Story of Florence Peto, May Basket No. 01166 was inspired by a Peto antique quilt that was published in McCall's Needlework & Crafts S/S 1966. Paragon offered the kit in two colorways: green and rust, and blue and brown.

We got to see an unfinished kit.



Why are those triangles basted down?

Then I realized you were supposed to applique everything.


Appliqueing triangles not my idea of a good time.

Monday, September 7, 2020

Lucy Hatch Whitfield's Unusual Quilt

Quilt attributed to Lucy Hatch Whitfield (1805-1873)
 Mississippi Department of Archives & History

There are not many one-of-a-kind quilts but this one in the collection of the Mississippi Department of Archives & History in Jackson appears to be in a category all by itself. 



2017 Exhibit Stories Unfolded

It's unusual because it's a combination of two styles, rather organic cut-out chintz cut for
formal conventional applique. The conventional applique design is not uncommon,
it's a repeat based on 8 mirror-image design units.

It was once in the collection of Susan Price Miller's family linked to her great-great-great
grandmother who lived in Mississippi. Five cousins, descendants of Lucy Hatch Whitfield, generously donated it. 

The basic pattern is one Marie Webster called a Conventional Rose, often termed a Rose of Sharon or a Whig Rose. The design with simple symmetries is usually done in red and green calicoes or solid colors and often seen in the 1840-1870 period either as applique, piecing or a combination of techniques.


But the Mississippi quilt, which may be earlier, is appliqued of chintz-scale florals with the
centers fussy-cut from this print with a calla lily, auricula (primrose) and other blooms.

Victoria & Albert Museum Collection

The print was quite popular with applique artists in the U.S. about 1820-1845. This colorway has a printed ground, a fancy machine ground.

International Quilt Museum Collection: Gift of Susan Price Miller

So does this one but it seems to be the second version: fewer flowers, different repeat. As Susan writes:
"There were two versions of this print, not counting possible variations in the ground. I had a length of chintz now at the International Quilt Museum that appears to be a cheaper knock-off. The bouquets are closer together, the former long-stemmed vertical flowers lie horizontally unrelated to the rest of the design, and some of the small details are in different locations or absent."   
The background print, a lattice

Blooms cut from other prints are scattered between
the large roses.

What you might consider the sashing cornerstones are
filled with a repetitive motif.

I recognize the arborescent floral with
a gnarly tree branch, this version from my collection.

(Wish I still had yardage with the brown ground)

Years ago Terry Thompson and I did a repro print for our Lewis & Clark collection from Moda.
The selvage says 1800-1830, which is probably when the fabric was printed but we see it lagging
in quilts here about 10 or 20 years.

The fussy-cutting for the formal shapes is interesting.
She has confined the chintz into repetitious, unrelated pattern,
something we might do today---but you don't see much of that
in the 1830-1850 period when this piece was probably stitched.


Here's a similar idea...
Cut out chinz motifs surrounding a star of diamonds.

Barely apparent in the cover quilt on Ladies' Circle Patchwork Quilts' Mississippi issue
July, 1989

Lucy Eliza Hatch (1805-1871)

Susan Price Miller sent some portraits from a family history book Whitfield, Bryan, Smith & Related Families, source of several stories here. See links at bottom of page.


More about Lucy & her family


Susan, a talented researcher, found much about her ancestor, recorded in Mary Elizabeth Johnson's book Mississippi Quilts. Lucy Eliza Hatch was born in North Carolina and like many of her generation lived in several Southern states as the U.S. expanded west in the early 19th century. After school in Alabama she married Benjamin Whitfield in August, 1821 when she was 16 years old and he about 21. Her mother had died and she took over the care of her siblings.

In 1824 the couple and young sons Benjamin and William moved to Hinds County, Mississippi to the new community that eventually was named Pocohantas. The earliest records of Benjamin and Lucy living there are two 1828 children's graves in the family cemetery on their land. They lost three young children in 1828 and 1829, William, Edmond & Narcissa. Fevers and early childhood illnesses must have run rampant. By 1834 she had given birth to 9 children; three were alive. Of their 12 children only three seem to have survived her.

His extended Whitfield family who had intermarried with her Hatch family are also listed as early pioneers of the Mississippi frontier.

Hinds County was frontier when
Lucy moved there in the 1820s. 
Mississippi had become a state in 1817.
Their land was about 10 miles north of Jackson, which
was founded in 1821 as the state's capital.

The Mississippi Department of Archives and History has a photo
of their home 
Magnolia, built about 1830.

"When finally completed there stood a log house covered with wide clapboards, the main portion reaching up two stories. several rooms extending themselves to the sides, porches stretching across front and rear, and the whole surrounded by magnolia trees and a lawn of twenty acres. The place was appropriately named Magnolia."
It may be a "substantial home"but it is not the luxurious plantation of our imaginations. It must have been a substantial farm, however, at one point the Whitfield's listed 140 slaves.



Benjamin Whitfield is a difficult person to characterize. He was influential in the development of the Baptist school Mississippi College in Jackson and he also seems to have been involved in many lawsuits over property and slaves. He advertised and sold numbers of slaves (see some ads below listing the people by their names). The family biography tells us he was devoted to the South and an ardent secessionist. His rationale: "He believed slavery to be God’s method of Christianizing the negro."

Chapel at Mississippi College built right before the Civil War

Their son Theodore (1834-1894) recalled Lucy's daily activities at Magnolia, which sound much like those of the typical plantation mistress who had servants in slavery to comb her hair and set her fires. Yet her days were busy supervising cloth and clothing production, the gardens, the kitchens and marketing for the larder. She---like the typical antebellum plantation wife---did not live a life of leisure.  

He remembered her as an energetic and domineering woman who "would scold and punish until it seemed a reign of terror." Lucy's free time was filled with her own needlework---which could include this quilt. She netted curtains, made carpets and insisted that slaves make quilts in spare time.

Son in Law Richard Griffith (1814-1862) 
Brigadier General Griffith died in 
Seven Days Battle of Richmond.
(Susan says this photo from an online auction
 does not do him justice)

Her family believes that enslaved seamstresses stitched this quilt in preparation for daughter Sallie Ann Whitfield's (1825-1902) marriage to Richard Griffith in 1848. The date---late for a quilt of these chintzes---may explain the unusual look of the wedding quilt. Conventional applique had replaced the fashion for chintzes; here we have a combination of old and new styles.

Lucy's husband Benjamin Whitfield advertised 46
 enslaved people for sale in 1837.

Three years later he was involved in the sale of 19 men, women and children.
Above are their names.

In the 1930s a W.P.A. interviewer talked to Louvenia Hatch Huff  (1868-? ) whose parents Jacob and Simpson Hatch had been slaves in the extended Whitfield and Hatch families. See the short transcript here on pages 349 & 350:

See more about the calla lily print at these posts:

And more about the Hatches and Whitfields here:
Whitfield, Bryan, Smith & Related Families by Emma Morehead & Dr. Theodore Marshall Whitfield: