QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Showing posts with label reproduction quilts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reproduction quilts. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Block Mystery

BlockBase #2065

UPDATE: Karan notes I have mixed some apples in with the oranges here. The block above is #2128 published as Double X #4 from the Ladies Art Company about 1890.

And Wilene notes the whole post is Wrong, wrong, wrong:
She says:
"This design has a long published history beginning as Unnamed in Farm and Fireside, March 1, 1897; then Edith's Choice in Hearth and Home, July 1896, and as Broken Dish the following month. Also again Unnamed in The Family published in Springfield, Ohio, October 1913; Cup and Saucer in Farm and Home, March 1, 1915; as unnamed friendship quilt in Oklahoma Farmer Stockman, ca. 1915-1920; Corn and Beans in Comfort, April 1923; Double X in Woman's World, April 1925; Sugar Bowl in Rural New Yorker, ca. 1930-1937; Wild Ducks in a June 1932 pamphlet from Needlecraft Supply in Chicago; Double X's by Nancy Cabot, April 10, 1935. All these have the square in the corner."

Here's a pattern that was quite popular about 1900-1920

This is a different block--note the corners are squares here, triangles above and below.

The block was often made up in blue and white.


A typical set of blocks in indigo blues

Other colors popular at the time were also used.

It's a rather odd construction, a square inside a square inside a square and then a strip of squares and triangles along the outside.

You don't find it any earlier than 1890 or so, the decade when these blue, gray and red quilts were so popular---also the decade when magazines began publishing quilt patterns. But I've never been able to find any published reference to it in the years when the design was fashionable.

This top may have been made between 1925 and 1950.

In 1930 Needlecraft Magazine published the design as Broken Dishes and in 1938 the Kansas City Star,
called it The Chinese Block Quilt. So it was published at least twice, according to my Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns, but by the thirties new fad patterns had appeared and no one was very interested in making it anymore.

The mystery: How was it passed around in the 1890-1925 years if it wasn't published?
 It was certainly popular enough. If you do an online search in the Quilt Index for the Chinese Block you find 15 different examples all made in that era (ignore the one dated 1865---it's misdated.)
Click here and type Chinese Block in the "Pattern Name" box and then search.

And the other mystery: What did the women who made it call it?



Here's a variation without the squares in the corners.
 No published source or name for the pattern.

If you were looking to make a reproduction from the 1900-1920 period this would be a great design.

Rotary cutting instructions for a 12" finished block from BlockBase


A - Cut 4 blue squares 2-1/2"
B - Cut 4 light and 4 blue squares 2-7/8". Cut each in half with a single cut to make 2 triangles. You need 8 light and 8 blue triangles.
C - Cut 4 light rectangles 4-1/2" x 2-1/2"
D - Cut 2 blue squares 4-7/8". Cut each in half with a single cut to make 2 triangles. You need 4 blue triangles.
E - Cut 1 blue square 4-1/2"
F - Cut 1 light square 5-1/4". Cut into 4 triangles with 2 diagonal cuts. You need 4 triangles.

For setting ideas look at the variations at the Quilt Index. The blocks are usually set with sashing or alternate blocks rather than side by side.


I found this photo online in the 2004 records of the Iowa-Illinois Quilt Study Group.
 With its lime green and Turkey red color scheme it might be late 19th century.

The biggest mystery here is why didn't I notice the detail of the corners in the blocks. All I can say is
Nevermind.


Thursday, June 30, 2011

Bird in a Cherry Tree

Bird in a Cherry Tree
Appliqued by Klonda Holt & Edie McGinnis.
Quilted by Brenda Butcher. 2011.

This fabulous reproduction is in Edie McGinnis's new pattern book from the Kansas City Star.
Confederates in the Cornfield



The book tells the story of a guerilla raid into the Union state of Iowa during the Civil War.

Klonda and Edie named the featured quilt after the birds in the border--- a terrific example of that style of birds and berries (lotsa berries). 

See more about Edie's book and a preview by clicking here

The block is one of the fad quilts of the mid 19th century. Many examples of this design were made, usually as repeat blocks, rather than being featured in samplers.



There are variations, something you'd expect in a pattern handed around quilter to quilter. The basic characteristics are a center floral with two different motifs rotating around the center.

 One is a stem with fruit, the other a leaf or bud extending into the block's corners.

I show nine variations in my Encyclopedia of Applique on page 84. Names given to the design include Flowering Almond from Comfort magazine in the early 20th century. This is the earliest published name from a pattern source I've found. It's a name that was still used in Tennessee in the 1980s when Bets Ramsey and Merikay Waldvogel did the Tennessee Quilt Project.

I have a flowering almond bush in my yard. It puts out a lot of small flowers on a leafless branch in the spring, looking very much like those rotating arms in the quilt pattern. I found a reference to the name Flowering Almond in a letter from 1860, in which Elizabeth Nessly Myer described such a quilt that was left to her family. (Mill Creek Journal, Kay Atwood editor and publisher, Ashland, Oregon, 1987)

Other names found in print in the early 20th century are Currants & Cockscombs in Marie Webster's book Quilts (1915) and Poinsettia in Ruth Finley's Old Patchwork Quilts (1929).

And here's Sue Garman's pattern for a 56" square quilt





Once you notice this old design you find it over and over.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Dogtooth Borders

Quilt by Anne Dagge, date-inscribed 1818
Collection of the Smithsonian Institution

I've been looking at a lot of quilts with the dates inscribed on them, working on my digital newsletter for 2011. One of the things that impresses me most is how popular the appliqued dogtooth border was before 1860, and particularly before 1830.

Dogtooth border on a tattered quilt from about 1850

When you see pictures of these triangular borders you might think they are pieced, but several years ago quiltmakers Elly Sienkiewicz and Judy Severson, researching quilts by reproducing antiques, realized borders of spiky triangles that look pieced in photographs were actually appliqued. Quilters probably slashed strips in regular fashion and turned the edges under to form triangles.


The source for the name Dogtooth seems obvious; canine teeth are sharp. The word is used to describe several pointed objects such as the Dogtooth Violet in botany and dogtooth spar in mineralogy. In her quilt research, Sandi Fox noted that dogtooth is also a name for an ornament in English gothic architecture, a type of quatrefoil detail found in medieval buildings.

1797
A Vandyke scallop or Portuguese hem on the right

Fox suggests the word Vandyke scallop might be a better name for the quilt technique. She found fashion illustrations in the 1790s featuring geometric borders such as a dress described as having a "chintz border in Vandyke scallops." A search of fashion illustrations from 1790-1820 will show many such clothing details.

Queen Henrietta Maria by Van Dyck,
 wearing a few scallops in the 17th century

Louis Harmuth's 1915 Dictionary of Textiles defines a "Van Dyke" as a "pointed scallop in laces and embroideries." The name comes from the paintings of Anthony Van Dyck, an artist born in Belgium in 1599. Van Dyck achieved fame as court painter to the English king when fashion dictated small pointed beards and elaborate clothing with v-shaped scallops on collars and cuffs. His name still describes a goatee beard, but the association with dress and embroidery has been forgotten.

Vandyke scallops in 1813

Fox also defined the edge as a Portuguese hem. A 1917 book Dressmaking: A Manual for Schools and Colleges described "Portuguese laid work" as a technique "chiefly used as a border decoration."

Cut-out chintz quilt with dogtooth border by Mrs. James Lusby,
 date inscribed 1837-1838
Collection of the Smithsonian Institution


A Star of Bethlehem with a dogtooth border, a photo sent by Jane Hall


One sometimes sees these double dogtooth borders in different colors

I tried to find a tutorial on the internet about how to stitch a dogtooth border (or a Vandyke scallop) but couldn't find any. Instructions are in two of my books and in Judy Severson's Flowers in Applique.
Below is a small illustration from my Quilts From the Civil War.

Begin with two strips of fabric, for example 
1 strip 4 x 20" inches of light
1 strip 2-1/2" a 20 inches of dark
Baste them together with a stay stitch on the bottom.
Mark every 2" on the top of the dark strip
Slash 1-1/2" down at those marks
Turn the edges under and applique them into a point. 

Erma's Wedding Quilt, by Judy Severson and friends
Judy does a very orderly dogtooth border

Nancy Hornback, Reunion Eagle
And so do Nancy and Karla
  
Liberty's Eagle by Karla Menaugh


Karla Menaugh, Sunflowers

Karla has included instructions for her plaid dogtooth border in my book Borderland in Butternut and Blue, available from Kansas City Star books. Click here to read more about the book:

 I love to find the dogtooth appliqued edge used in other ways
A quilt from about 1850 with a dogtooth top to the basket

And a dogtooth edge on a scallop from another mid-19th-century quilt


Here's a detail of a terrific album quilt
in the collection of the Winterthur Museum.

See more 19th-century quilts with dogtooth borders by clicking on the links:
Two from the International Quilt Study Center and Museum
Number 2008.040.0195
Number 1997.007.0688
http://cdn.firespring.com/images/a/2/4/a/6/a65515c7-2270-4a60-a8f1-6eb169f2d267.jpg

Another from the Winterthur
http://content.winterthur.org/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/quilts&CISOPTR=455&CISOBOX=1&REC=3

Chirp, Barbara Brackman, 2010
Inspired by Anne Dagge's 1818 quilt at the top I put a wacky dogtooth border on my little Broderie Perse quilt of paisley birds.